Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which of these pistons should I buy for my RB26DETT build?

CP Pistons, Wiseco or JE?

They are all relatively the same price (under $1,000)

In terms of the build I've just gone with ARP rod bolts, ARP main bolts, ARP head bolts, ACL main and rod bearings, etc. etc.

Nothing too too fancy.

Greg

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The CP pistons are around $900 or so with rings + freight ($50 or so)

All up with ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, ARP main bolts, ACL main and rod bearings I'm hoping to come in under $1,700 or so *fingers crossed*

Greg

Advice in terms of what rings to use??

I know a couple of big workshops source their own custom rings and pins to suit the CP's, but I couldn't confirm the specifics as I gave my CP's the flick and went to Tomei instead.

You have the option of using different pins and piston rings when you buy CP Pistons. They have about 5 different pin and a premium CPN ring set...

Do you have any more info on this?

I did a google search but couldn't come up with any info.

I have used CP in all my motors, no problem at all. You can get them from the US on ebay for under $700 a set delivered.

Ditto,

Ive got 8 Silvia SR20s running in the 11's on regular CP's, quite a few RB's as well.

I know a couple of big workshops source their own custom rings and pins to suit the CP's, but I couldn't confirm the specifics as I gave my CP's the flick and went to Tomei instead.

Funny that i ditched the Tomei items for the CPs.Call me crazy.

JE are the better piston out of the lot, but why pay the price for a JE when you can buy 1000hp CP's off the shelf cheaply that'll do job just as well, they're going in my next build! I wouldn't worry to much about the rings on the CP's, more so the workshop you use to put your motor together, a motor is only as good as it's builder..

This is what I've been quoted so far:

> CP Pistons, 86mm, $879.80

> ARP Head Studs $360

> Cometic Head Gasket $168.69

> ARP main studs $165

> ARP rod bolts $84.93

> ACL rod and main bearings $270

All the above prices are in USD and are excluding freight.

Freight all up is around $110USD.

This is what I've been quoted so far:

> CP Pistons, 86mm, $879.80

> ARP Head Studs $360

> Cometic Head Gasket $168.69

> ARP main studs $165

> ARP rod bolts $84.93

> ACL rod and main bearings $270

All the above prices are in USD and are excluding freight.

Freight all up is around $110USD.

For *$110* USD that sounds like the best deal i've ever heard! :laugh::down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...