Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this about right.. i got a quote for the 100xxx service on my gtr and nearly fell over when i got the quote back of $1200...

Using genuine parts, the timing belt and water pump change, coolant flush. Redline shock proof gear oil for the gear box, Transfer case oil change, Atessa flush, Diff oil synthetic, Brake flush with dot 5 fluid and Clutch flush, Power steer flush.

$1200?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/
Share on other sites

where did you get that quote from....wont surprise me because it does take a lot of labor time doing the water pump and timing belt change....plus your using the good fluids so they will cost a bit of dosh....give a few other places a call and see how they give you a quote on doing the same things

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3698329
Share on other sites

Thats unbelievable.. I think i'd cry spending so much on a service.

In the past I've always done the work myself. But with slightly less quality oil that what it looks like you have gone with.

$090 - cambelt

$085 - waterpump

$180 - tensioners

$65 - Motor oil

$14 - oil filter

$90 - g/box oil

$70 - diff oil

$30 - brake/clutch fluid flush.

------

$624

GTR = just that little bit more expensive. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3698409
Share on other sites

Thats unbelievable.. I think i'd cry spending so much on a service.

In the past I've always done the work myself. But with slightly less quality oil that what it looks like you have gone with.

$090 - cambelt

$085 - waterpump

$180 - tensioners

$65 - Motor oil

$14 - oil filter

$90 - g/box oil

$70 - diff oil

$30 - brake/clutch fluid flush.

------

$624

GTR = just that little bit more expensive. :)

Where do you get a cambelt and waterpump that cheap???

haha yer i know fell off my car especially when u add $500 for the power fc tune and install lol!

Its around $600 in labour for the water pump and cam belt install plus rad flush alone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3698428
Share on other sites

hey joel how much can u get the tensioners for i can get a gates timing belt 4 $140 IS THIS THE SAME BRAND U get also could u pm me with the address of ur work so i can check it out :(

I bought a Genuine Nissan cam belt for $90.

The tensioners are $80 each from holden then u can reco them for $40 (2 bearings inside so 2x20) if you have a press.

I grab the NSK bearings as used in the genuine nissan tensioners from some bearing company. Its not CBC as they want stupid prices for the bearings and are not genuine NSK.

I don't bother with an idler as they are stupidly priced; so 2 tensioners it is. + the tensioners are locking tensioners so just as good as an idler once nipped up.

The dayco cam belt for the rb30det is $38. Its done a little over 70,000km's and still looks ok. Nearing time for another service though. :(

wow how is the water pump so cheap? I am about to buy one for my R34 and Nissan price is $227.45 and Kudos motorsport (which I was told would be cheapest) is $238.00.

The water pump is aftermarket from repco/motormates/sprint auto's. There is a cheaper one (-$10) and it doesn't come with a gasket, I go the better one. I've never had issues with them and this one has been good with no leaks at 70,000km's so far. The old rb20 did around 100,000km's and the aftermarket pump still looked fine.

Unless you are 7000rpm+ (n1 water pump) all the time I don't really see a need for a genuine water pump.

Some things like clutch master/slave cylinders etc its definitely worth going genuine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3699893
Share on other sites

I bought a Genuine Nissan cam belt for $90.

The tensioners are $80 each from holden then u can reco them for $40 (2 bearings inside so 2x20) if you have a press.

I grab the NSK bearings as used in the genuine nissan tensioners from some bearing company. Its not CBC as they want stupid prices for the bearings and are not genuine NSK.

I don't bother with an idler as they are stupidly priced; so 2 tensioners it is. + the tensioners are locking tensioners so just as good as an idler once nipped up.

The dayco cam belt for the rb30det is $38. Its done a little over 70,000km's and still looks ok. Nearing time for another service though. :(

The water pump is aftermarket from repco/motormates/sprint auto's. There is a cheaper one (-$10) and it doesn't come with a gasket, I go the better one. I've never had issues with them and this one has been good with no leaks at 70,000km's so far. The old rb20 did around 100,000km's and the aftermarket pump still looked fine.

Unless you are 7000rpm+ (n1 water pump) all the time I don't really see a need for a genuine water pump.

Some things like clutch master/slave cylinders etc its definitely worth going genuine.

sweet as ur a life saver was just about to fork out a heap on other peoples prices cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3699927
Share on other sites

I bought a Genuine Nissan cam belt for $90.

The tensioners are $80 each from holden then u can reco them for $40 (2 bearings inside so 2x20) if you have a press.

I grab the NSK bearings as used in the genuine nissan tensioners from some bearing company. Its not CBC as they want stupid prices for the bearings and are not genuine NSK.

the gates racing belt is closer to $140 yes, the normal timing belt is like $80-90 tho. as for the tensioner its $100 RRP (bearings included) on its own....

if u are serious sweet R33 come in and see me, ill look after ya :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3700116
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...