Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah I like the doori quite a bit . used to rally drive ages ago and just love that sideways action.

to start this section off I'll post a vid.

this is not an option video it was taken from a drift club

http://meggala.com/vids/dri_28.mpeg

http://meggala.com/vids/dri_18.mpeg

enjoy

meggala

[img:7b4dc09659]http://www.meggala.com/1driftweb/driftracingjap.jpg[/img:7b4dc09659]

Seems to be some nice wide roads in Silverwater's industrial estates, as well as those around Hills Motorsports ... I'll keep you up to date of drifting action :!: I'll be a certain turn up at the next organised track day or down the skid pan, we'll have to give it a whirl.

  • Like 1

jim take some advise.

you have a weapon of a car in more ways than one.

go out and spend some cash on some good advaced driving courses and keep the boost down for now.

most of us have done these course they teach you all about car control etc. It is the best money you will spend I did my first one 20 years ago and have done 8 or 10 and gee they are a great day out where you can push your car and learn about it under instruction and on a track where you are fairly safe.

meggala

Already have 2 booked meggs 8) Just waiting till I get the alarm installed before I take the car out. Certainly a good idea tho your right, get to learn how your car handles in situations you may not otherwise encounter until they occur on the road .... I'm all for it and will be looking for my another after I complete these two :!:

Guest 33GTS25

skyzerr, the trick to drifting is making sure that you dont use all that power. purely and simply because you dont need it

all you need is second and third gear and keep your revs low and focus on maneuvering your vehicle.

if you really want to test your self

do a fishtail run

find a nice empty piece of private road :roll: and see how many times you can go from lock to lock without losing control :twisted:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...