Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anybody have any idea what the differences are between rb26 blocks.

Ok we know r34 is better made, but not all that much in it between them.

eg could one take an r32 block, use an r33 crank, and r34 head, etc and make it all work or are there actual differences ?

Just thinking i think the oil pump chanels are different ?

E

same blocks,

r33 and r34 run different nose on the crank from r32 and different oil pump,other than that there the same.

u can interchange all components,provided u use the right oil pump to match the crank or u can run an adapter on r32 crank to use later pump.

I have heard that the N1 block is different and supposed to be somehow "better", but as far as I know all the other RB26 blocks are the same.

I believe the same block casting is also used in the RB25 AWD engines used in the R33 GTS-4, and the R34 RB25DET neo used in the Stagea.

All these engines use the alloy 4WD sump, and have the special pan rails.

  • 9 years later...

bump. 10 years later.

I have a couple of questions and I don't want to start a new thread:

1) Can a r32 N1 block fit into a 34-R?

2) Does the 34-R RB26 have stronger internals, CAMs, or other machine components than a 32-R engine? I'm not talking about differences in sensors or other electronics as I'm aware about the coils, CAS, etc.

3) Do 32-R N1 engines have better/same turbo chargers as a 34-R block?

1. Yes. Identical

2. Not really. Just the better drive for the oil pump, about it.

3. No. They have shitty lag fest turbos. 34N1 are basically the same as Garrett -7s, best for response and around 300-320rwkw

End of the day N1 factory blocks have not proven to be stronger than a normal 26 block. N1s just cost more yet still retaining the oiling issues with poor returns and no restrictors in the blocks. So in summary, they are a waste of money - better of rebuilding in todays day and age

Thanks again, mate. :-)

So with question1, there's no issues with a 32-R N1 block fitting into the R34 ATESSA, tranny, etc?

2. Whats the difference between a 32-R N1 and 34-R Nur (N1 engine from what I read)?

The N1 RB26DETT's were all the same but,

The R33 N1 RB26's turbos and engine were slightly revised.

The R34 N1 RB26 was further revised with the Camshaft Timing altered for more torque.

R34 GTR N1 Turbos are Ball Bearing hence allowing the shaft to spin faster = More responsive.

R33 N1 turbo's IIRC were still larger than R34 N1s as they make more power but are noticeably less responsive

Thanks again, mate. :-)

So with question1, there's no issues with a 32-R N1 block fitting into the R34 ATESSA, tranny, etc?

2. Whats the difference between a 32-R N1 and 34-R Nur (N1 engine from what I read)?

1. As i said, it's identical. This means no problems.

2. Again as i said crank snount for the oil drive, turbos and honestly - fk all else. N1/NUR motors still have the inherent flaws that any decent rebuild should well and truly fix.

R33 N1 turbo's IIRC were still larger than R34 N1s as they make more power but are noticeably less responsive

They are very similar but if larger, they are not by much.

R33 N1 Turbine Wheel = 41.7mm - 53.0mm

R34 N1 Turbine Wheel = 42.4mm - 53.8mm

R33 N1 Turbine Trim = CD79

R34 N1 Turbine Trim = 62T

Edited my post anyway :)

Also I believe the N1 Block is reinforced.

Yeah exhaust wheel isn't the only factor - comp wheel also

Ye N1 block has extra ribbing - but people have split them @ the same levels as normal ones. So it's not really a set in stone "advantage" even @ 400rwkw.

Yeah exhaust wheel isn't the only factor - comp wheel also

Yeah for sure, I should have listed that too:

R33 N1 Compressor Wheel = 44.5mm - 60.1mm

R34 N1 Compressor Wheel = 44.5mm - 60.0mm

Ye N1 block has extra ribbing - but people have split them @ the same levels as normal ones. So it's not really a set in stone "advantage" even @ 400rwkw.

I am sure for a street application, it's fine.

Might have to go for a Nismo RRR Black (GT500) :D

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...