Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am rebuilding front rear calipers and figure might as well paint them while they're apart

I've had a search and didn't really come up with much besides how to's

What paint types are going to last longer and tolerate the heat better

Powder coating (only $10 per caliper)

VHT caliper paint (and do you need a clear coat)

Duplicolor Metalcast

cheers

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wow $10 a caliper for powdercoat- i would do that then - what colours they offering for that price. they are leaving the prep up to you?

Yep 170-230 degree's C for curing powdercoat.

i have the gold VHT and clear coat on mine - no discolouring or fading - clear coat keeps them glossy when cleaned.

Metalcast looks great, but the red will go orange in the heat - not sure on the blue

I've already cleaned the calipers, any colour but some pearl/metallic style colours have 2 layers and cost an extra $10

(another joint quoted $30-40 for basic paint)

so you think powder coating will handle the heat OK

i have seen LOTS of powdercoated calipers, from bikes to new corvettes. havent heard of them coing back with any problems after track work.

will be coating my own soon, trying to find a spare set of front calipers to rebuild and coat so i can swap out the whole lot in one go.

what parts cant be powdercoated? obviously the pistons, should i just strip them down completely, and advise them not to coat the inside?

i have a set of calipers here i want to fit to my legnum, and would like to get them powder coated.

$10 sounds about right too, i had a set of rims powder coated at $40/rim.

pistons and lips for the dust boots cannot be coated nor inside of the cylinder.

Mating face for the 2 halves of the caliper - if skyline like calipers canot be coated

bolt holes and threaded sections.

---------------------

hope they sand blast them before coating atleast - less likely to hold the coating if thats not done.

caliper paint is more than durable (you would know this is you REALLY did a search i know there is a lot of info out there because i have personally posted in a few threads on this)

if you can get powder coating done cheap then go fot it - that's the ducks nuts

but if its going to be a hassle to pull things apart then caliper paint will well and far exceed the expectations of what you need

I painted my front calipers with caliper paint (spray cans)

Sprayed mine about 1.5 years ago and the shine is still like it was from day one!!

only cost like 12 bucks a can i think.. cheaper than any other methods

G`day lad`s i have had both painted & power coated & it`s not much different some times it hard to get a good coating as the ali is not the Best ??,iam Know looking at having a set ceramic coated piston`s as well,so i will post up some bit`s of info soon ??,that`s if you are interested ???,

Here are some pics of powdercoated calipers from coaters based in the USA - these are custom coaters and not industrial coaters

first 2 pics are brembo calipers

32423003-2.jpg

lpc24.jpg

or look here at the stuff you can do with calipers

http://thepowdercoater.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=2

candy_purple_(Medium).jpg

Alluminium coats as well as any other steel so if they are prepped properly and not just coated as they are you can have great reults with great durability.

PT - post up some pics once you get them done :thumbsup:

couple of dust boots had splits, so I have bought front/rear seal kits and have already removed pistons and split the calipers...figured might aswell do full rebuild now, so powder coating is not going to make things harder in terms of prep etc

shall post pics when done, have connections to a powder coater now so may get it done cheaper again

I used Metalcast Red for my calipers, cost me around $9 from memory for the can and a lazy sunday afternoon

I already had brake caliper cleaner in my garage, and I used aluminium caliper paint as a primer.

Did this also on my previous R33 and after a clean they come up looking brand new again

3 coats of primer,

I originally tried 2 coats of paint, but it was too bright for my liking, you'll get this deeper kind of red from 4 coats

post-29425-1205845385_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
wow $10 a caliper for powdercoat- i would do that then - what colours they offering for that price. they are leaving the prep up to you?

Yep 170-230 degree's C for curing powdercoat.

i have the gold VHT and clear coat on mine - no discolouring or fading - clear coat keeps them glossy when cleaned.

Metalcast looks great, but the red will go orange in the heat - not sure on the blue

at the moment doing a corner an afternoon, vht gold brake caliper paint and clear coat....... excluding the pic i sanded the nissan logo back to silver and continued to clear coat..... looks alot better.... prep takes the longest

post-27156-1208008928_thumb.jpg

Edited by jenkies

jenkies, i have the VHT gold on my 33 atm too, looks good but im in the process of upgrading to a candy gold powdercoat.

VHT definately is a cheap good looking upgrade

and yeah i remember prepping them without removing them from the car lol - lots of effort :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...