Jump to content
SAU Community

Toshi Remap Done - R33 Gtst

siddr20

By siddr20,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)

Didnt mean to create another thread, but thought i start with a clean one!!

Plus this thread will have all the details.

Edit:

Well got it dyno'd at 196.2kw at 10psi

Which i think is pretty damn good for 10psi!!

Will upload dyno sheet later on in the night..

------------

Anyways more details thru out the thread.. read below

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211348-toshi-remap-done-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

siddr20
siddr20

Things to check/do before going to toshi (will make his life easier and yours) 1) Check that your ignition timing is at 15. If not, try and fix it lol... OHH 15 is recommened for Rb25s. So check your

Toshi
Toshi

the are still making H8/534. Maybe 2-3 years after stop make. Daughter board is expensive. I have daughter board (and sellng) but my customers usually goes the cheaper way (H8/534). I think std ca

Posted Images

Mr_G Mentor

Mr_G

Posted
Posted

Was there with Sidd today to undergo the remap, quite interesting to see and learn how he goes about this. Very friendly person and i think he would top one of the customer service experiences when it comes to the service he provides. If I still drove a GTST and was looking for a remap, definitely put toshi on the cards without hesitation.

We are still yet to have the remap done due to the timing problems experienced. Sidd will be getting his timing re-checked by another gun and we will see how it goes from there.

J

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

yeah would be interesting to follow up....

but Ive always been on the thought of the dyno is a tuning tool..

Sid, please post up dyno results if you do get them.

would be interesting to compare against other members etc

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Alright everybody i got my remap done today and am i just amazed!!

I honestly think this remap is equal to a power fc tune with same mods. I have driven a 33 with same mods as mine tuned on a power fc, and it feels the same!!

The work started today at 10.30am and finished about 3.30. Thats 5 hours worth of work (plus the hour or two i spent the day before) and toshi did not ask for any more money!!

I must say his service is just excellent and he truely knows a lot in terms of tuning.

So i highly recommend this remap to any other r33's out there with similar mods as mine (will list them later on).

For 400 bucks i have to say its worth it!!

gonna go have some lunch now, so brb.. lol.. will list my mods plus how the car feels!!

Edited by siddr20
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

^ yup thats what im about to explain.

I didnt have lunch, so i was starving hense why i left some details out and ended the above post.

Alright well.

i got the road tune done and i now know why toshi recommends it more than a dyno tune at first.

Firstly he put a new map up for me, and 2nd and 3rd gear FLEW!! I was so amazed im like lets work on this map..

But then i went up an hill in 5th gear and the car just wasnt going past 2000rpms.

So basically if i was on a dyno with that same map he probably wouldnt have known about that 5th gear issue as you are only in third gear on the dyno.

Road tune seemed much better as he could adjust the map thru out the rev range in the gears, while still looking at the air fuel ratios.

I was driving the car the whole time while toshi was on his laptop in the passenger seat.

Its not difficult to do the road tune, unless you have some crazy mods etc. Then he probably will have to spend more time adjusting the map..

My mods are:

- Full exhaust

- R34 side mount

- Bigger Fuel pump

- more boost

Before remap the car has been dynoed at 183kw.

Maybe on tuesday i might head down to my local tuner shop and get a dyno done to see the difference.

Im guessing its close to 200kw if not a little more.

--------

My air fuel ratios are in the 11 range peaking at 11.8 at full power (that is 6000-7000rpms).

At about 4500rpms its about 13 at most.

Now hes happy to change the ratios upon your request.

The only advantage about the dyno tune is that you can adjust and make the air-fuel ratios a bit more smoother in terms of the curve. But wont make any difference in terms of power..

I can always get that done a bit later on.

So having my ratios about 11.5-11.8 is pretty much spot on i guess.

------------------

How does the car feel?

BLODDY QUICK!!

A lot of power from 4000rpm. 2nd and 3rd gear pulls so much harder than ever before.

1st gear is just crazy as it revs out so much quicker.

Im not experiencing any flat spots anymore either..

Edited by siddr20
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Things to check/do before going to toshi (will make his life easier and yours)

1) Check that your ignition timing is at 15. If not, try and fix it lol... OHH 15 is recommened for Rb25s. So check your engine first and sus it out.

2) Tell him exactly what mods you have and most importantly which fuel pump and how much it flows (need to know in order to adjust the map properly)

3) Make sure your boost guage works and set it at the right boost before tuning.

4) Tell him what your intentions are for the car. Do you do more track days than everyday driving? Is your car just for street. Is your engine old - so tune it so its not harsh.. etc etc. This makes it easier to adjust the ratios and get the right map for the car.

These are just some of the questions that he will ask/check.

Edited by siddr20
  • Like 1
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

But dont worry everyone, i will get my car on the dyno soon and post up before and after results.

If you want before, here is the graph:

BEFORE:

post-12579-1206254470_thumb.jpg

AFTER:

post-12579-1206430140_thumb.jpg

^ note only at 10psi or so

But i dont think these two graphs can be compared.

Before was done at a cold night..

After seems like higher IT temps..

Meh im happy with it..

Edited by siddr20
subie Grand Master

subie

Posted
Posted
Things to check/do before going to toshi (will make his life easier and yours)

1) Check that your ignition timing is at 15. If not, try and fix it lol..

HOW??

2) Tell him exactly what mods you have and most importantly which fuel pump and how much it flows (need to know in order to adjust the map properly)

HOW can I tell the flow rates??

These are just some of the questions that he will ask/check.

Cheers

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

subie - Get your self a timing gun. Basically its a gun that shines light down near the harmonic balancer which reads out the timing (You should see the strobe flash in time with the engine). Each mark you see is 5 degrees. But go to any work shop and they will be able to check. Only takes 2mins at most.

If its not at 15, then you will have to adjust your crank angle sensor!!

In regards to your fuel pump - well if you know which model it is then just look it up. I bought a walbro one which flows at 255L/PH?? So its bigger than a stock gtr pump (185)

Edited by siddr20
subie Grand Master

subie

Posted
Posted
subie - Get your self a timing gun. Basically its a gun that shines light down near the harmonic balancer which reads out the timing (You should see the strobe flash in time with the engine). Each mark you see is 5 degrees. But go to any work shop and they will be able to check. Only takes 2mins at most.

If its not at 15, then you will have to adjust your crank angle sensor!!

In regards to your fuel pump - well if you know which model it is then just look it up. I bought a walbro one which flows at 255L/PH?? So its bigger than a stock gtr pump (185)

might get my mechanic to check the timing and i have the same fuel pupm as u mate

cheers

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

^ no worries. ah just be careful as theres two types of walbro pumps!! Just double check the model number

Mr_G just took my car for a spin :D

I will let him explain how it felt :D

AS hes driven my car many of times!!

Edited by siddr20
Mr_G Mentor

Mr_G

Posted
Posted

Just took Sidds car remapped for a drive, and definitely has alot more in the midrange and top end which felt great! Im an s15 driver and have alot of work done to mine, so its pretty hard to compare against my car, however it probably feels like a 200rwkw car in my opinion, we have to wait to get it on the dyno and have a look but for $400, its been a huge improvement to the driveability and tune in Sidd's car and can honestly recommend the value of this to be better than a pfc.

To fine tune it, Toshi can meet you at a dyno I believe so he can play around with it? But honestly for what it is, you cant go wrong :D

Thumbs up to Sidd and Toshi :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...