Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Intake Manafold

7yphon

By 7yphon,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted
Been looking into it for a while now but cant seem to find much info

Is it worth putting on a RB26 Intake man on a 25 and can it be done???

IF so who has done this and how much will I be looking at?

IMHO it would only be worth it if your going to keep the ITBs, otherwise get one designed for the RB25.

Check this recent thread out on the subject... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ap-t208070.html

ISL33P Proficient

ISL33P

Posted
Posted
The stock RB25 manifold will support 500hp.Only get a Greddy one if you are chasing every KW.

i was waiting for that one.

standard plenum will support 2000hp...............if you stick enough boost into it.

the change of intake manifold/plenum is to improve on the poor properties of a standard plenum...therefore doing a better job of what the existing one on there is currently doing. if the new plenum is doing its job the benefits are increased power and torque everywhere.

effeciency is the key...its not what you do (because its more than likely been done before) but how you do it which makes it impressive :cheers:

Ariel

Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted
i was waiting for that one.

standard plenum will support 2000hp...............if you stick enough boost into it.

the change of intake manifold/plenum is to improve on the poor properties of a standard plenum...therefore doing a better job of what the existing one on there is currently doing. if the new plenum is doing its job the benefits are increased power and torque everywhere.

effeciency is the key...its not what you do (because its more than likely been done before) but how you do it which makes it impressive :D

Ariel

Well than, put it this way. The stock intake manifold is not very inefficient up to 500hp. I switched mine, along with cams and more boost, and I'm only making about 30-40hp more.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Well than, put it this way. The stock intake manifold is not very inefficient up to 500hp. I switched mine, along with cams and more boost, and I'm only making about 30-40hp more.

30-40hp with cams and more boost? Something a miss there.

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
Posted

I bolted a greddy copy plenum on, best upgrade i ever done.. cheap too...helps with intake temps, throttle response is unreal and the mid range and top end is good and most of all ya engine bay looks how a engine bay should look nice and tidy.

H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted

there is alot of controversy surronding this copy item however i am willing to give it a go. Just wondering what most people did with the location of their bov?? did u have to have another pipe made up etc?? someone pm me the answer (if needs to be made up who is brisbane would be good for it) also would you be able to use some of the old style hybrid piping?? Hame

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted
I bolted a greddy copy plenum on, best upgrade i ever done.. cheap too...helps with intake temps, throttle response is unreal and the mid range and top end is good and most of all ya engine bay looks how a engine bay should look nice and tidy.

that's about every possible reason you would ever have to change it...

The center feed style that the OEM plenum uses is actually a lot better for sharing PSI evenly to every cylinder, where unless you run some extra boost, larger plenums such as those from Plazmaman, can sometimes cause a bit of starvation... again this only really matters if you are chasing every last KW...

All the other reasons though are valid... Keeps inlet temp down cause the piping doesn't run straight back over the fan on the radiator, OR the block... Increases throttle response due to shorter piping... looks a SHIT TONNE better... all good reasons :)

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
Posted
there is alot of controversy surronding this copy item however i am willing to give it a go. Just wondering what most people did with the location of their bov?? did u have to have another pipe made up etc?? someone pm me the answer (if needs to be made up who is brisbane would be good for it) also would you be able to use some of the old style hybrid piping?? Hame

I had a GKtech intercooler kit with your normal style intercooler piping going between fan shroud etc..

i re used it, had to cut up one 90 degree bend and re used a bit of black 90 degree silicon i had from the stock cooler and it all bolted up sweet as.. mind u i took out my washer bottle, still yet to re mount a smaller one...

H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted

with mine i have the GTR style piping that comes out of the side wall which allows the washer bottle to stay in place (although think i will replace soon with alloy one etc..) i suppose when i go to do it i'll find out, i just need to have the bov welded onto the cooler pipe coming out of cooler. (any suggestings where in brisbane??) I doing up my plenum now. will show pics when it is finished:D cheers hame

ISL33P Proficient

ISL33P

Posted
Posted
Well than, put it this way. The stock intake manifold is not very inefficient up to 500hp. I switched mine, along with cams and more boost, and I'm only making about 30-40hp more.

i think its time to change tuner/mechanic or who ever recommended the combination because there is certainly something not right there.

drdoof - how do you know that ? do a search of my posts and you will find some flow test figures of the standard plenum, note 28" is approx 1psi of pressure, and you will soon see how the standard one distributes air.

Ariel

Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted
30-40hp with cams and more boost? Something a miss there.

Yeah, the exhaust side of my hybrid dodge cummins/yellow bus turbo is choking the shit out of my motor. I need a bigger exh side. I already have the turbine housing, I just need a HX40 wheel. My pressure ratio's in the exh manifold must be through the roof.

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted
i think its time to change tuner/mechanic or who ever recommended the combination because there is certainly something not right there.

drdoof - how do you know that ? do a search of my posts and you will find some flow test figures of the standard plenum, note 28" is approx 1psi of pressure, and you will soon see how the standard one distributes air.

Ariel

To be honest, mostly hearsay and guess work... You coulda provided a link to your work :) I will go searching...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • hardsteppa
      Hi everyone.

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...