Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 3.4 should be very interesting, did you stick with 86.5mm bore and what style/shape of rod did you chose?

I presume you've made it so its a drop in kit for a stock block?

Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ
The pistons are 20 thou over so ( 86.5 ), they will also be available in 40 ( at some point ).

The rods are a custom H Beam.

Drop in kit for stock block is the aim :-)

Cool, what is the actual cc rating with the 86.5mm bore?

Rob

pffft. whatervaa......... just anticipating someone thats prepared to spend 6k on a rotating assembly might want oil squirters. not me but im not everyone.

just have a japlish disclaimer, oil of the squirter instalation faliure...

I have never had a RB26 in the 240z, its always been a RB30, stock block, stock crank, RIPS wet sump etc and anyone who says a stock 30 crank won't rev hard or is limited to 7500 etc is talking rubbish

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLfRseF_F4

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=G6qtA0_kQUc

9500-10,000 rpm during burnout

Rob

everytime i see this 'cocaine' car on the strip i get goose bumps - sounds better than a moaning hottie :blink:

to get a comp ratio here is 1 formula i work with

bore x stroke (bore =86.5mm stroke =95mm)

86.5 x 85.5 / 4 =1870.5625

1870.5625 x 3.142 x 95 = 558344.2006

558344.2006 / 1000 = 558.3442

litres

558.3442 x 6 =3350.0652 (the cubic centremetres of the block)

3350.0652 / 1000 = 3.3500

Deck height

i wont be running one but the formular is the same as the bore x stroke formular just replace the stroke with the deck height measurement

Head Gasket

I HAVE NOT REMEMBERED A MEASURED HEAD GASKET THIS IS A ROUGH GUESS

similar 2 the bore x stroke just replace the stroke with the squashed thickness of head gasket and measure the bore of the gasket, or could always CC it with a burette

i.e

87 x 87 / 4 =1892.25

1892.25 x 3.142 x 0.9=5350.9045

5350.9045 / 1000 =5.3509

Head CC

mines 62cc's atm

Piston dish/dome

if i get the kit id run a 12cc dome

add deck height, head gasket, head cc's, piston dish cc's (minues if dome)

0 + 5.3509 + 62 - 12= 55.3509

add the bore x stroke with the above

55.3509 + 558.3442 = 613.6951

devide answer with the above

613.6951 / 55.3509 = 11.08

11.08:1 is the compression ratio id be running

congratulations rob!

and u have this car for sale!? why sell such a beast

I want to get into something lighter, its about 200kg over weight for the Pro Import class I run in but I don't want to strip it out to be a full race car, as it is, it still has glass windows (except doors), steel hatch etc, just needs headlights and wipers back in and its road legal again for someone else.

Rob

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...