Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

always gives me a chuckle when people thing they have to remove headlights to replace globes. have a good look at the headlight assembly and you should figure it out. it is pretty straight forward, untwist the cap and remove old globe.

same goes for parker lights...you dont have to remove headlights for those too as others have thought.

You dont need to take off your headlight to remove the light globe, there are two plugs at the back (high beam and low beam) twist about 1/4 circle and it comes out with the globe.

Does anyone know if these same instructions apply to the R34? I need to replace a dead globe and can't figure out how to get it out.

I just did my globes the other day! i installed 5000k philips ! Its really easy! u dont need to take off your whole head lights! Theres a metal spring u push it down then twist ur plastic thing that holds the globs and it comes out! very easy.

its not the highbeam and the middle one its the one shown in the pic. ive done those 2 already its just the circled one. i have trouble changing that one

R33GTRXENONHEADLIGHTS.jpg

btw not my car. its too nice lol

sorry for being trouble my 1st car lol

Edited by 5hu7o
like i said they are the parker lights

read my post if you want help, theres heaps of threads if you do a search, stick your index and middle fingers in the hole do a quarter twist and thats it.

maybe someone esle can regurtitate what i have written. :P

my bad i ddnt know what they where called

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...