Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

300 RWKW using the GT-RS

I think the one you are thinking of is 'thizzle' he was one of the first guys in AU to get the GT-RS

it was setup at BD4's from memory and it made a touch over 300rwkw with cams and other junk

since then no one else has come close to that mark - im not saying its bullshit or not, but average GT-RS is around 260-270rwkw

there's a few other "high scorers" some that come to mind;

grepin's 2835 setup

thizzles GT-RS setup

again - it doesnt mean the figures are bogus, they are probably legit

but i suspect there some info from the puzzle missing, theres always a reason a car makes more power etc.

you dont make extra power from magic dust or magic tricks.

Interesting discussion guys. I agree with SK that boost isn't what determines horsepower. The formulas are good indications of likely power with standard aftermarket mods, though each car's setup can have so many variables the formulas can't be taken as any more than a guideline.

Certain mods (like cams) will shift an engine's powerband around depending on the setup the owner wants, so this can throw off the calculations as the maximum power at a certain boost pressure will be higher/lower than the same turbo on stock cams. Setups like these would obviously be classified as outliers in graphing power vs boost, so that will automatically distort the formula depending on whether you keep the outliers/disregard them.

There are too many variables to generalise RB25 power levels IMO. But the formulas come very close, closer than an estimate at any extent.

I think your right on the money, i got my 34 dynoed today and i got 240.6kw atw on 15psi. Unfortunately i ran out of fuel as im still waiting on my injectors to come. Ahh well, the gt-rs is a sick turbo, i get full boost at 3200!!!

Hi guys,

I conducted a regression analysis using the output figures and boost ran from the dyno thread relevant to the RB-25 engine with a HKS GT-RS Turbo.

Basically, a regression analysis is a form of statistical modelling that attempts to evaluate the relationship between one variable (Boost - PSI) and another (Power output - RWKW).

This data will help you 'predict' what sort of power you would get if you have an R33 GTS-T (RB-25 engine) with a HKS GT-RS turbo and other supporting mods of course (ie. Front Mount I/C, Full exhaust, Fuel pump etc etc) running the boost of your choice.

Basically, select the amount of boost you wish to run, and look at the corresponding output figure next to it for an estimate of how much power you would be making.

This analysis is ONLY a rough guide, please do no use it as a definite determinant since all cars are individual and differ to one another.

This post should eliminate those repetitive questions such as; 'How much power will I make if I run XX amount of boost with a GT-RS turbo on my R33?'

post-48356-1207094323_thumb.jpg

Cheers!

  • 2 months later...

Nice turbo, just finished tuning a customers car silver SII r33 277rwkw @ 1.1bar which is bit of a suprise as it was bought from the auctions as an unknown.... turns out to be a stolen and recovered jobbie with full whiteline and bilstein handling kit, 555cc injectors, PFC (i had one laying around) and hybrid cooler... and of course a HKS GT-RS

it is almost identical in response to a 8cm T67 kit i did for a customer awhile back but is a little short on top end.

interesting topic...

i just got my car back today with a 2835 pro s (.68) and its making 265 @ 19psi ... click for more detail

bombtrack has a neo gtt with EXACTLY the same mods as me but with tomei cams and will be getting his done soon on the same dyno / tuner

will post results when it happens

Wow at only 1.1bar? That's pretty impressive. Why didn't u run a bit more boost through it, surely it would have still made a bit more power at around 1.3bar...

Yeah, the customer asked for the best result i could get a 1.1bar so i did what i could, it definately would run bigger numbers easily but he's happy :D

there's a few other "high scorers" some that come to mind;

grepin's 2835 setup

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30...es-t151839.html

thizzles GT-RS setup

I just looked at the dyno chart in that Grepin thread... 322rwkw with sub 10:9 air fuel ratios!?! something not quite right there

would love to get 300rwkw out of the 2835... pointless on the street but would be heaps of fun on the track... I don't think it would quite get there tho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...