Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

..it might be good to look into an R34 NA with 4WD system, coz dat will help a lot with the takeoff hahaha

Yes and no.

Attessa system adds 150 odd kg's to the car. Which is a fair bit in car terms

NA's, especially heavy 4WD 4 door NA's, dont really create enough power to have massive traction problems off the line.

I have launched my car quite hard in RWD and can honestly say that traction is not really a problem - unless your sporting el-cheapo tyres.

With the take off, a little wheel spin is good. It helps you get your revs up to where the power is quicker.

BUT! - here is the catch 22

With the R33's and 34's a constant 5% front torque is being sent to the front wheels. Through the twisties this creates a MASSIVE diffrence. I currently have shit for tyres. Going around corners in RWD, the ass just flys out without a problem. With the car in AWD the level of grip is hugely different. Attessa can also keep you out of sticky situations. If there is enough G forces applied to any of the 3 dimentions of the car the computer will assess this and send a certain amount of front wheel torque. If you keep your foot down the car will simply bog a little and pull straight and true.

So yes.. its a good system.. but can be a disadvantage.

Thats my rant and I hope it helped and made sence :)

man, i have apparently the slowest combo out there - N/A R34 25GT FOUR DOOR AUTO - BUT, i still dont see why people think its slow... get an exhaust on, and get SPLITFIRES :), and it will go hella fast enuff believe me. the autos do come with tiptronic too... :| i do 0-100 between 7-8 seconds.. it might be good to look into an R34 NA with 4WD system, coz dat will help a lot with the takeoff hahaha

yeah man there not bad at all, i went for a test drive in a non turbo r34 auto 4 door(not AWD but) and it had good power, but i went for the 33 manual instead, more fun:) pick it up tommorow cant wait :rolleyes:

yeh lol manual is fun, but u'll be shitting urself when ur stuck in heavy peak hour traffik for hours. plus i must say i like the look of an R34 over an R33 lol

if i ever get a manual, i'd want it to be turbochargeD

such as the 200SX S15 SPEC-R :thumbsup::D:D:D

yeah true, but since im only on my L's at the moment im not going to be doing a lot of peak hour traffic :P , yeah i like the look of a coupe r34 better than a r33 coupe but not a 4 door 34 or a 33 coupe no offense but then again i like the rougher unrefined feel of the 33 over the 34, picked up my today,

i love it :(

i have a series one r33 NA Auto and il do 0-100 in just under 8seconds...

only modification is the 2.25 inch exhaust system

not the fastest but im one happy P Plater :laughing-smiley-014:

and it beats up to vx commodores, so its all good...

hmmm i was just wondering, if i chucked a r33gts manual gearbox in my semi auto 34gts would it go as well? as a stock manual r33gts?

and...what mods are you allowed to have for P plater? because my 34 is slow as hell... and I'm to scared to do things to it, because i don't want to waste money...

hope you don't mind i just post it in this thread...because its kind of under the same topic=p=p

GTS4's have shorter gears..

Dont get me wrong, NA's can be quick.. Even quicker than turbo cars.. Just aslong as there warnt too many straights.. A well sorted NA can breeze past a turbo with the right driveline/suspention/brake mods if the driver knows how to extract everything out of the ye ol' faithful DE. Through reducing unsprung weight an NA can be just as quick point to point as a turbo.

Why do gts4s have shorter gears??, i was unaware of this :), what does this make the car?, slower, quicker, less top speed??

Why do gts4s have shorter gears??, i was unaware of this :down:, what does this make the car?, slower, quicker, less top speed??

It gives you quicker acceleration.. but the 4th ger is so close it dosen't really matter.. 5th is the same..

It can be bad.. because you can start to strip gers with higher power and its harder to go down into gears at higher speed..

hmmm i was just wondering, if i chucked a r33gts manual gearbox in my semi auto 34gts would it go as well? as a stock manual r33gts?

and...what mods are you allowed to have for P plater? because my 34 is slow as hell... and I'm to scared to do things to it, because i don't want to waste money...

hope you don't mind i just post it in this thread...because its kind of under the same topic=p=p

See sticky thread at the top of the NA section..

Edited by GTS4WD
  • 2 weeks later...

Im just wondering, my car came with tein suspension but the coilovers are a light blue, is that stock, i thought stock were black?

And i was wondering if anyone has heard of Schnierder rims? any good?

thanks

Edited by alex1991s
Im just wondering, my car came with tein suspension but the coilovers are a light blue, is that stock, i thought stock were black?

Coilovers are the shockie/damper and spring together as one unit..

so no.. its not stock.. its a tien item made to work with the tien damper

Coilovers are the shockie/damper and spring together as one unit..

so no.. its not stock.. its a tien item made to work with the tien damper

Sht i meant tein springs, but ye the the shock abosorbers are a light blue?

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...