Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

i have recently brought a 1994 R33 Series 1(?) with 18's sporting brand new toyo proxe t1R's(thank god there brand new, because i just priced them :cool: ), K+N panel filter in stock air box, jasma rear muffler and catback system and aftermarket heavy duty suspension.

Anyway to the question..i just brought a GReddy PRotec B-spec 2 electronic boost controller on the weekend and i need to know a few things:

- i did a search and found that i can run 10psi safely without needing a remap of the ecu, but the turbo can handle 12-13psi?so if i turn it up to 10psi do i have to do anything else besides running 98oct. (which i already am)?will it do any damage?will that be lean or rich?

- im going to run 10psi as my high setting, and 5 or 7psi as my low setting. they say the low setting cannot be lower than standard, which psi is standard because i thought its 5psi to 5krpm, then from 5krpm its 7psi. so will that dual stage boost go when i install this?

- can i install this and run 10psi for squirts and say 5 or 7psi (which one?) for work, without an intercooler?

Please help me out guys,

Cheers Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey SAU,

i have recently brought a 1994 R33 Series 1(?) with 18's sporting brand new toyo proxe t1R's(thank god there brand new, because i just priced them :D ), K+N panel filter in stock air box, jasma rear muffler and catback system and aftermarket heavy duty suspension.

Anyway to the question..i just brought a GReddy PRotec B-spec 2 electronic boost controller on the weekend and i need to know a few things:

- i did a search and found that i can run 10psi safely without needing a remap of the ecu, but the turbo can handle 12-13psi?so if i turn it up to 10psi do i have to do anything else besides running 98oct. (which i already am)?will it do any damage?will that be lean or rich?

- im going to run 10psi as my high setting, and 5 or 7psi as my low setting. they say the low setting cannot be lower than standard, which psi is standard because i thought its 5psi to 5krpm, then from 5krpm its 7psi. so will that dual stage boost go when i install this?

- can i install this and run 10psi for squirts and say 5 or 7psi (which one?) for work, without an intercooler?

Please help me out guys,

Cheers Dan.

Why the hell do people say "brought" when they bought something? Fark it sh1ts me.

Anyway.....

You will run up to 9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3780293
Share on other sites

depending on where u live and how you treat the car, at 10psi on cold mornings you may hit the fuel cut as well...

So just baby the car when cold and dont let it go on boost until water and oil temps come up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3781016
Share on other sites

Mine went bang on stock boost after 10 years :D I was planning on increasing the boost using a controller, but am waiting for a new turbo to go in. I dunno how anyone measures 'should be safe' :) I think it's very much a case of try it and see, and if it goes bang... '5h1t eh!'

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3781350
Share on other sites

You will run up to 9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time.

- So when you say "9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time." do you mean that my ECU is limiting it or the ECU will be damaged?

- Also is rich and retard safe and just wasting fuel or is it just as bad as running lean for the engine?

- So when i increase the boost, the ecu automatically goes richer according to the airflow rate?

>>reply to other ppl<<

- Why do you have to take it easy on the accelerator on 10psi?so 10 isnt safe..?

Looking Forward to Some Answers..

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3785692
Share on other sites

i'd say boost it to 10psi and let your right foot control the boost.

i have three settings on my e-boost 2 and i leave it on high all the time.

just learn how to control your foot.

boost can be controlled by your foot - yeah. but even if you use the pedal to 'limit' the boost at 7psi you're getting nowhere near the acceleration as if it were set to 7psi to begin with and being at WOT.

- So when you say "9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time." do you mean that my ECU is limiting it or the ECU will be damaged?

- Also is rich and retard safe and just wasting fuel or is it just as bad as running lean for the engine?

- So when i increase the boost, the ecu automatically goes richer according to the airflow rate?

>>reply to other ppl<<

- Why do you have to take it easy on the accelerator on 10psi?so 10 isnt safe..?

Looking Forward to Some Answers..

Dan.

your ecu reads all of this extra air and fuel and goes.. WTF!!? and turns back the timing and adds fuel.

to your ecu - extra air is the devil so it dumps a whole lot of fuel to make sure its safe. its not bad for it, but its not good - too much fuel can wash oil off your bores. in extreme cases you could score your bores.

your airflow rate is calculated by your AFM voltage at certain rpm. if you hit a certain voltage at a certain rpm your ecu will ad X amount of fuel. if you increase the flow rate, your ecu will (in a way) shit itself and cut everything all together. when i had my hiflow installed i was hitting 3.8v at around 3000rpm which made it feel like hitting a brick wall - you just lose all power and it did it again at around 4.8v @ 5500 rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3786010
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps for the answers, especially the last one that was exactly what i needed!!!

BUT. now i need to know what i have to do/what are my options because i want to up the boost safely without replacing the ECU or Turbo...Yet. So when i put the boost controller in apparently you can turn it off and run stock boost?how does that work,i thought this was replacing the stock unit?(i do want stock boost for drives to work!whether it be through turning the controller off or setting it to low).

So what would people recommend my high and low boost settings be?can low be 5psi or 7psi(does it still depend on rpm)?what can high be 8 or 9 safely?(because it sounds like 10psi isnt safe...?)

Hope to hear from you all soon.

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789626
Share on other sites

You can run 9 or 10 with no dramas.If you want low boost to drive to work, just drive the car normally and you wont see anywhere near 10psi.

The car does not run boost all the time,only when you get your foot into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789630
Share on other sites

So 10psi IS safe?have many people on here run that, with no damage reports?so when i get a front mounted intercooler that puts your boost up doesnt it(read that on here somewhere..)?but because i have a boost controller it keeps it the same, just with more lag?also with the boost controller it has a heap on settings like SET,GAIN,START BOOST,WARNING,LIMITER,PEAK,LAST BOOST,etc. does anyone have any tips when setting these?

So when i want more power ill need to get a New ECU(Recommendations?),New Turbo or Hiflow Stock(Recommendations?)?

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789669
Share on other sites

Get a mate to drive while you adjust the settings incremantally til you reach

the desired boost level.

I'm running 9 PSI on low and 12 PSI on high. For daily driving i turn it off, which

sets it back to stock 7 PSI.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789684
Share on other sites

Get a mate to drive while you adjust the settings incremantally til you reach

the desired boost level.

I'm running 9 PSI on low and 12 PSI on high. For daily driving i turn it off, which

sets it back to stock 7 PSI.

Cheers mate. out of curiousity what mods have you got to be able to run 12psi?are you also using a profec b-spec 2?so you can turn the controller off and run stock boost?i thought when you install the controller you disconnect the stock one?did you install it or professional?im thinking of tweed autobarn where i brought it from?they anygood?

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789692
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...