Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

i have recently brought a 1994 R33 Series 1(?) with 18's sporting brand new toyo proxe t1R's(thank god there brand new, because i just priced them :cool: ), K+N panel filter in stock air box, jasma rear muffler and catback system and aftermarket heavy duty suspension.

Anyway to the question..i just brought a GReddy PRotec B-spec 2 electronic boost controller on the weekend and i need to know a few things:

- i did a search and found that i can run 10psi safely without needing a remap of the ecu, but the turbo can handle 12-13psi?so if i turn it up to 10psi do i have to do anything else besides running 98oct. (which i already am)?will it do any damage?will that be lean or rich?

- im going to run 10psi as my high setting, and 5 or 7psi as my low setting. they say the low setting cannot be lower than standard, which psi is standard because i thought its 5psi to 5krpm, then from 5krpm its 7psi. so will that dual stage boost go when i install this?

- can i install this and run 10psi for squirts and say 5 or 7psi (which one?) for work, without an intercooler?

Please help me out guys,

Cheers Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey SAU,

i have recently brought a 1994 R33 Series 1(?) with 18's sporting brand new toyo proxe t1R's(thank god there brand new, because i just priced them :D ), K+N panel filter in stock air box, jasma rear muffler and catback system and aftermarket heavy duty suspension.

Anyway to the question..i just brought a GReddy PRotec B-spec 2 electronic boost controller on the weekend and i need to know a few things:

- i did a search and found that i can run 10psi safely without needing a remap of the ecu, but the turbo can handle 12-13psi?so if i turn it up to 10psi do i have to do anything else besides running 98oct. (which i already am)?will it do any damage?will that be lean or rich?

- im going to run 10psi as my high setting, and 5 or 7psi as my low setting. they say the low setting cannot be lower than standard, which psi is standard because i thought its 5psi to 5krpm, then from 5krpm its 7psi. so will that dual stage boost go when i install this?

- can i install this and run 10psi for squirts and say 5 or 7psi (which one?) for work, without an intercooler?

Please help me out guys,

Cheers Dan.

Why the hell do people say "brought" when they bought something? Fark it sh1ts me.

Anyway.....

You will run up to 9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3780293
Share on other sites

depending on where u live and how you treat the car, at 10psi on cold mornings you may hit the fuel cut as well...

So just baby the car when cold and dont let it go on boost until water and oil temps come up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3781016
Share on other sites

Mine went bang on stock boost after 10 years :D I was planning on increasing the boost using a controller, but am waiting for a new turbo to go in. I dunno how anyone measures 'should be safe' :) I think it's very much a case of try it and see, and if it goes bang... '5h1t eh!'

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3781350
Share on other sites

You will run up to 9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time.

- So when you say "9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time." do you mean that my ECU is limiting it or the ECU will be damaged?

- Also is rich and retard safe and just wasting fuel or is it just as bad as running lean for the engine?

- So when i increase the boost, the ecu automatically goes richer according to the airflow rate?

>>reply to other ppl<<

- Why do you have to take it easy on the accelerator on 10psi?so 10 isnt safe..?

Looking Forward to Some Answers..

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3785692
Share on other sites

i'd say boost it to 10psi and let your right foot control the boost.

i have three settings on my e-boost 2 and i leave it on high all the time.

just learn how to control your foot.

boost can be controlled by your foot - yeah. but even if you use the pedal to 'limit' the boost at 7psi you're getting nowhere near the acceleration as if it were set to 7psi to begin with and being at WOT.

- So when you say "9-10psi before you hit rich and retard.Then its new ECU time." do you mean that my ECU is limiting it or the ECU will be damaged?

- Also is rich and retard safe and just wasting fuel or is it just as bad as running lean for the engine?

- So when i increase the boost, the ecu automatically goes richer according to the airflow rate?

>>reply to other ppl<<

- Why do you have to take it easy on the accelerator on 10psi?so 10 isnt safe..?

Looking Forward to Some Answers..

Dan.

your ecu reads all of this extra air and fuel and goes.. WTF!!? and turns back the timing and adds fuel.

to your ecu - extra air is the devil so it dumps a whole lot of fuel to make sure its safe. its not bad for it, but its not good - too much fuel can wash oil off your bores. in extreme cases you could score your bores.

your airflow rate is calculated by your AFM voltage at certain rpm. if you hit a certain voltage at a certain rpm your ecu will ad X amount of fuel. if you increase the flow rate, your ecu will (in a way) shit itself and cut everything all together. when i had my hiflow installed i was hitting 3.8v at around 3000rpm which made it feel like hitting a brick wall - you just lose all power and it did it again at around 4.8v @ 5500 rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3786010
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps for the answers, especially the last one that was exactly what i needed!!!

BUT. now i need to know what i have to do/what are my options because i want to up the boost safely without replacing the ECU or Turbo...Yet. So when i put the boost controller in apparently you can turn it off and run stock boost?how does that work,i thought this was replacing the stock unit?(i do want stock boost for drives to work!whether it be through turning the controller off or setting it to low).

So what would people recommend my high and low boost settings be?can low be 5psi or 7psi(does it still depend on rpm)?what can high be 8 or 9 safely?(because it sounds like 10psi isnt safe...?)

Hope to hear from you all soon.

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789626
Share on other sites

You can run 9 or 10 with no dramas.If you want low boost to drive to work, just drive the car normally and you wont see anywhere near 10psi.

The car does not run boost all the time,only when you get your foot into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789630
Share on other sites

So 10psi IS safe?have many people on here run that, with no damage reports?so when i get a front mounted intercooler that puts your boost up doesnt it(read that on here somewhere..)?but because i have a boost controller it keeps it the same, just with more lag?also with the boost controller it has a heap on settings like SET,GAIN,START BOOST,WARNING,LIMITER,PEAK,LAST BOOST,etc. does anyone have any tips when setting these?

So when i want more power ill need to get a New ECU(Recommendations?),New Turbo or Hiflow Stock(Recommendations?)?

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789669
Share on other sites

Get a mate to drive while you adjust the settings incremantally til you reach

the desired boost level.

I'm running 9 PSI on low and 12 PSI on high. For daily driving i turn it off, which

sets it back to stock 7 PSI.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789684
Share on other sites

Get a mate to drive while you adjust the settings incremantally til you reach

the desired boost level.

I'm running 9 PSI on low and 12 PSI on high. For daily driving i turn it off, which

sets it back to stock 7 PSI.

Cheers mate. out of curiousity what mods have you got to be able to run 12psi?are you also using a profec b-spec 2?so you can turn the controller off and run stock boost?i thought when you install the controller you disconnect the stock one?did you install it or professional?im thinking of tweed autobarn where i brought it from?they anygood?

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214028-my-stock-r33/#findComment-3789692
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...