Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

ive taken my car to a company here in brisbane to get a haltech installed, but its been 3 weeks so far and they keep saying they are waiting on haltech to make / finsihing testing some plug,

and im annoyed. surely their is people out there that have done this and not had this issue>

my cars an auto so i was told the haltech was the best option for the new ecu / tune

thanks in advance,

Bryn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214833-haltech-into-a-r34/
Share on other sites

If you have the new e11 V2 yuo will just have to wait as Haltech has not developed the plug for this model as yet.

If you read HPI you will notice that they used the haltech as a piggy back computer in their 34 and spliced into the factory wiring for all the signals.

Hope this helps!!! :thumbsup:

bryn, go to them and say u want them to wire it in (for no extra charge) or you will be taking ur car elsewhere (if u do this i have a contact for you) as they took ur car on the belief they could do it, which is NOT the case as has been shown to date.

i called haltech then and htey said they wont be finsihed developing this plug till friday or monday, so im looking at another week with no car.

and shane, ive spoken to a few people on here, who really recommned NOT letting them re wire as they dont have a clue how to do it.. :thumbsup: i think i will hjsut have to wait till next week, unless i find another ecu worth installing and go else where . IVE BEEN totally kept in the dark,

i was told a few days and now its been a few weeks, and i was calling them daily and last week was told to stop calling, and they will call me with updates.. :)

i got suckered

nope handed over no money, and they have done nothing but apparetnly dyno my car to determing the ecu was f**ked..

if i go get it, im still stuck with a car that wont rev over 3000rpm, and 3 warning lgihts..

then what do i do'? wait till next week when haltech release the plug and go back to them?

I'd get the car, there's no way Haltech are going to be on time....plus if you get the car I can have a look for you as well and most likely save you a few grand....even if the ECU has really gone kapoot, I've got a manual ECU with a spare ignition circuit in it.....think about it.

go somewhere that have half a clue and they can wire the ecu in for you

or give kyle from 6boost a call (0410 730 598) and see what price he can do for you on an autronic sm4 - not sure if they do plug ins for the 34 yet, but he'll know and he'll guide you

If it was my car, i would be getting a remap of the stock ecu. There is much debate over using aftermarket ECU's with auto boxes in skylines, i wouldnt be taking the risk unless i was shown that the haltech has the software to retard the ignition timing on gearchange. The stock ecu has two fuel maps for low and high octane fuel,two ignition maps, closed loop, vct control, idle control and knock control.All these functions have been well developed by the factory. The only other option i would be considering is a plug in Autronic sm4, but im not sure they do it for the r34.

PS i doubt the stock ECU has s#$t itself, i just too unlikely unless there is something else we dont know about

totally agree with Adriano, I also say the workshop in question may be giving bryn bias information in an effort to gain maximum profit, because there is no way for about 2k extra the haltech is a better option over the remapping the stock..

I queried said mechanic on this and his response was "well the haltech has a 32bit processor, the stock is only 8bit" LOL

fair enough adriano, but according to this workshop, the ignition part of my ecu is f**ked. and say that a remap or piggy back thingy wont work as this part of my ecu is f**ked..

thas why i was told to get the haltech,

Edited by Silver_R34_GT-T

as the others have said, go get your car and limp it to another workshop

and work out your ECU plans. if you get any ECU installed a "wire-in" this means your stuck with a mangled loom and a ECU

if you want to un-do it, restore it to factory, change it later on its going to be a hefty cost to un-managle the loom & whatever else is changed.

if they insist in a wire-in job get a boomslang loom adapter to protect your original harness and make the wire-in job easier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...