Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by haste

Does anyone know where to get a road worthy, even though the car has a relatively sizeable top mount turbo? Need to get the car registered.

i just got my car rw and rego'd with top mount but then a mate went to same rw place a week later and they wont do it. still hasnt found anyone to do it. its all luck.

RW testers are liable in court if you or someone else is hurt ,or in any accident if the car is found to be un road worthy. Accident insurance apraisers do check.  

It is more difficult now

Thing is though, you took the vehicle there, they tested it.. a week later 50 mods are back on after you left it with your "brother" there isn't much they can do.

Anyway, with the big top-mount turbo thing, you should be able to get it engineered for under $1000, then its fully roadworthy and can be registered that way. Probably the best way to go about it. It is possible to be fully legal you know, it just takes a bit of $

Get it done properly. (Eng cert, etc)

Think about, if you can get a RWC for a car that obviously isn't, then what does that say about RWC when you go sell/buy a car?

If there is one standard that EVERYONE sticks to, then everyone knows what a RWC means. Otherwise, you might as well sell your car with the 7 of clubs cuz that is as bout as meaningless as a RWC.

i spoke to an engineer about getting my car engineered so that its all legit. he told me that you cant get a car engineered that has been modified that is newer than the 80's (?) and he said that the only way to do it was to get it checked by the epa which cost 4k. dont know if this is ture though.

No, its not actually true.. but some places probably are either unfamiliar with how to do it, or can't be bothered.

Getting it certified for EPA pollution regs is again a different matter..and yup, i think its a few $k because it has to go through a full involved process

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...