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I Fiddled With My Car And It Went Snap Crackle And Pop

urtwhistle

By urtwhistle,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

Hello, im hoping some 1 out there might be able to point me in the right direction.

i was fiddling with my car tonight checking to see if the cable i bought to boot mount my battery was heavy enough. so i hooked up about a 4m peice of 4g cable to the positive on the battery ran it to were they normaly hook up on the cables (yeah i know now it aint heavy enough now) the car chugged away then started. i turned the car off then went to start it again. it went snap crackle and pop. from that sec onwards it had no power to any thing in the car. i checked the fuses under the dash and under the bonnet aswell as the fusible links. none were blowen. i then un hooked the cable hooked it up like normal but still no power to the ignition.

the car is a R34 GTT

mods stock motor on LPG with a powerFC

please tell me i havent fried the pfc

were does the power go from once it enters the main fuse box?

any help will be greatly appreciated and i may even contemplate giving you my greddy copy manifold if i dont throw it through the windscreen of my car first that is.

regards

chris

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Starter motor draw on a 4G piece of cable? - ouch. I use 0G for reference.

Have you got a PFC hand controller? have you got the stock ECU to chuck in for a test?

Not sure bout your R34, but a 32 runs power out the back corners of the engine bay, into the wheel wells then through the upper kick panel area. Did you smell ozone inside the car when it crackled?

R34 on LPG sounds pretty trick never the less :P

EDIT: Hrrrm, thinking more, not sure the 4G would killed it nessacerally. Is there a dodgey connection that arced maybe?

Edited by GeeTR
urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Geetr, yeah its injected gas, runs great. yeah i have the hand controller but nothing is getting power. yeah i got 10m enought to do 2 runs i just wanted to see IF it would work with 1. Nah i bought the car with the powerFC already in it so i don't have a spare. Ozone ummmmmmmm not that i can think of why would i??? i was more wondering once the power goes into the fuse box were does it go to next? like computer - ignition then starter motor or vice versa or an ignition module. yeah i think i bit off more then i could chew LOL

but seriously after tonight i am sooo over trying to make this greddy plenum fit.

regards

chris

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ozone (or thats what i call it) is that burnt smell when you 'let teh smoke out' of some hardware.

Iv fried audio gear as a scrote and the whole cabin reeks of it.

Not 100% sure, but would say the ECU has a constant 12v feed, and then switches a relay in the engine bay, when you hit ACC. Learn the ECU pin outs.

Time to start hunting through the R34 workshop manual schematics... nothing like forced education for motivation.

Good luck

Edited by GeeTR
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

wow, i nvr heard of a Skyline on LPG!!!

Thats pretty cool... ! Hows the mileage on it?

In regards to ur problem.. i have no idea.. but couldnt resist asking u about the LPG.

nizmonut Community Regular

nizmonut

Posted
Posted

the engine trying to draw through a 4g wire has overloaded the main fusable link.

this is not a fuse as such, or a relay, it is a thin copper plate that the battery cable bolts to before anything else is connected to it. check there first, if not get a circut tester and unplug the ignition tumbler plug and check for current there.

if no luck i'd suggest you ring your local auto electrician and tell him what cable you used where

they should be able to fix the rest.

s13_Skyline_inside Proficient

s13_Skyline_inside

Posted
Posted (edited)

the power goes into the fuse tray then gets distributed to where it needs to go, doesnt follow 1 set path like ecu first then go to head lights etc. I'd get an auto sparkie to look at it just to be safe, im sure you dont want to break anything else by accident

Edited by s13_Skyline_inside
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

manually check the ecu switched power feeds with a multimeter. If it's getting power you have killed your ecu (doubtful) If it isn't you've killed a fuse or fusible link, maybe even a relay. double check the fusible links and fuses.

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ozone (or thats what i call it) is that burnt smell when you 'let teh smoke out' of some hardware.

Iv fried audio gear as a scrote and the whole cabin reeks of it.

Not 100% sure, but would say the ECU has a constant 12v feed, and then switches a relay in the engine bay, when you hit ACC. Learn the ECU pin outs.

Time to start hunting through the R34 workshop manual schematics... nothing like forced education for motivation.

Good luck

hmmm if you could point me in the direction of a schematics id be forever gratefull as the only 1 i can find costs about 600 and its in JAP.

wow, i nvr heard of a Skyline on LPG!!!

Thats pretty cool... ! Hows the mileage on it?

In regards to ur problem.. i have no idea.. but couldnt resist asking u about the LPG.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=lpg to my knoledge there is 2 skylines and 1 stagea in aus running gas, but mine is the only dual fueled 1

the engine trying to draw through a 4g wire has overloaded the main fusable link.

this is not a fuse as such, or a relay, it is a thin copper plate that the battery cable bolts to before anything else is connected to it. check there first, if not get a circut tester and unplug the ignition tumbler plug and check for current there.

if no luck i'd suggest you ring your local auto electrician and tell him what cable you used where

they should be able to fix the rest.

iv checked the fusible links but will have to just keep working back from the main fuse box i spose. i was thinking of unplugging all un nessacary fuses and slowly trying to eliminate the problem

the power goes into the fuse tray then gets distributed to where it needs to go, doesnt follow 1 set path like ecu first then go to head lights etc. I'd get an auto sparkie to look at it just to be safe, im sure you dont want to break anything else by accident
grab a test light/multimeter, start from the battery and move along to check where the voltage stops. simpe

and yeh, pics/info of LPG setup

manually check the ecu switched power feeds with a multimeter. If it's getting power you have killed your ecu (doubtful) If it isn't you've killed a fuse or fusible link, maybe even a relay. double check the fusible links and fuses.

i checked the ecu and there doen't appear to be any funny smells or burn marks so thats a good sign. im justing trying to find the problem now. im thinking once i get the car running i will just send the car into a auto sparky and get the battery boot mounted professionaly. how does every 1 else run the cables to the stock pos? through the car or under the car?

regards

chris

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Just to let you know.

Even without an ecu plugged into the car, your dash lights and other electrical components still work. I know, i had no ecu in my car during the engine rebuild but was still able to use my windows and crank the engine. So until you have power to your ignition and dash you will not know if you have fried the ecu.

My first question is: Do you have an alarm/immobilizer? If so this could be fried and is stopping the ignition from powering on.

You need to test the power in a progressive manner.

Using a multi-meter or a test light hook one lead to GND. First measure the main cable going from the Batt to the fuse box, then measure across the "shunt", after that measure some of the "inputs" to the relays or fuses.

On the other hand this could be well out of your scope (as your current adventures have shown), bite the bullet and take it to a qualified Auto Elec to sort out the issue

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hahaha yeah, normaly I'm very good with electronics, last night my brain may as well have fallen completly out of my head. the real problem at the moment is TIME, i wake up and its dark then come home and its dark. so i start work on the car using a flood light and in typical fashion you rush because you just want it finished and thats when problems like this happen.

and yes i do have an immobilizer i completly forgot about that, that should have some sort of fuse or jumper that i haven't thought to check. well i'll keep ya posted and if that fails to the Auto Sparky she goes and they can finish the boot mount while there at it.

cheers all

chris

Edited by urtwhistle

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