Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so the more i read the more confused i am...

so im just gonna ask the masters to give me a hand...

Why is your username Joe and &33? Is it Joe and Ampersand33? Is it Joe and and 33? Do you stutter? Is it a typo? Is it relevant?

Again I remind you to read the above mentioned disclaimer.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, great advice already given, only thing I can add is depending what your power goals are you can consider getting a R34 GTT SMIC instead of FMIC. If you don't have high power goals then that is a great option. However in saying this, once you do a few mods the bug will get you so you then want more and will end up needing a FMIC.......

Why is your username Joe and &33? Is it Joe and Ampersand33? Is it Joe and and 33? Do you stutter? Is it a typo? Is it relevant?

Again I remind you to read the above mentioned disclaimer.

I have also wondered this. ;)

well my thoughts are that its a typo and he was meaning to have it "Joe and R33"......just my thoughts.....

ahh yes the power bug will bite you one way or another mate....so its proably better off going with a FMIC and not really worry about a SMIC.....when i was changing my smic to a fmic i was like WOW the FMIC is really really tiny compared to the FMIC......and if your going to boost it up then my advice which is what i am going to get done soon is get a electronic boost controller and a aftermarket fuel pump......and safely enjoy the boost to 10 psi and i personally wont go anything higher then 12 psi.....10 psi is a safe boost level and is more reliable

Joe, dont listen to these fools.

All you need is:

an atmo blow off valve - $150

4 inch exhaust tip (its the only bit people see) - $50

Huge sub and amp combo - $200 on ebay or similar

Chrome hubcaps (much cheaper than rims) - $40 ar Super Cheap Auto

and spend $60 on brand name stickers for your doors (Trust Greddy HKS etc)

All up $500 and youl'll have a fully sick ride.

Remember to drag off every car you see at the lights, keep the drivers window down and the sub turned up. With practice you may even master the art of driving with the seat all the way back and fully reclined. (chicky babes love this)

Joe, dont listen to these fools.

All you need is:

an atmo blow off valve - $150

4 inch exhaust tip (its the only bit people see) - $50

Huge sub and amp combo - $200 on ebay or similar

Chrome hubcaps (much cheaper than rims) - $40 ar Super Cheap Auto

and spend $60 on brand name stickers for your doors (Trust Greddy HKS etc)

All up $500 and youl'll have a fully sick ride.

Remember to drag off every car you see at the lights, keep the drivers window down and the sub turned up. With practice you may even master the art of driving with the seat all the way back and fully reclined. (chicky babes love this)

Dont forget racing stripes. Oh oh and DONT lower it whatever you do! Those stickers are about 5rwkw each at LEAST.

;)

There is nothing unsafe about 12psi and that is reliable too i had mine boosted to 14 drove like that for a year before it made funny noises

lol Guy so true

well my thoughts are that its a typo and he was meaning to have it "Joe and R33"......just my thoughts.....

ahh yes the power bug will bite you one way or another mate....so its proably better off going with a FMIC and not really worry about a SMIC.....when i was changing my smic to a fmic i was like WOW the FMIC is really really tiny compared to the FMIC......and if your going to boost it up then my advice which is what i am going to get done soon is get a electronic boost controller and a aftermarket fuel pump......and safely enjoy the boost to 10 psi and i personally wont go anything higher then 12 psi.....10 psi is a safe boost level and is more reliable

There is nothing unsafe about 12psi and that is reliable too i had mine boosted to 14 drove like that for a year before it made funny noises

lol Guy so true

it really depends on the condish of the turbo i guess! a mate of mine has done the same as you, run it at 14 for over a year now and everytime i drive it still feels very good, no problems so far! unlike mine, the old owner must have boossted it and so! so when i was running 14 the bearing shat itself on the second day

if he goes all out and puts enough stickers on it, it will lower itself.

:D

Don't forget the mandantory LED lights for the windscreen washer squirters!

Thats another 2-3rwkw

:D

Oh ... and have a 'fake' roll cage made up with exhaust bends! :D

Edited by RubyRS4
hahaha also there is cardboard estra wide spoilers and side skirts!!

hahahahaha

also with the name...

yeah i did a typo and i dunno how to change it back now... :D

PM one of the admins, im sure one of them will be nice enough to change it for you. Then again arent they all the greatest :D:D

Also, remember to have your right arm hanging out the window and left hand on the wheel at 1 o'clock staring down anyone that dares to look your way(yes I'm talking about that elderly lady over there)... makes you look sick... and looking sick = kw :D

Also, remember to have your right arm hanging out the window and left hand on the wheel at 1 o'clock staring down anyone that dares to look your way(yes I'm talking about that elderly lady over there)... makes you look sick... and looking sick = kw :D

and if your ever losing a drag against a VN, yell out "f**k the po-po", instant kilowatts, its like a NOS effect

but back to a serious note, there is MORE than enough information here to get you to the power you want.

but first, cooling and flow, cooling and flow.

Edited by Damo_R34

dont forget to also put chromes wiper thingys on.....they = kw too bro.....and you got to have a fully sick subwoofer mate.....neons galore.......and all those things hanging from your rear view mirror.....race pedals....they all equal to mad street credz mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...