Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

agreed. mounting it in front of of even behind the radiator is not a good plan. it wont get good clean airflow and it will just starve the radiator of air even more. for a 32 GTR the side ducts are the only way to go really. and considering there is bugger alll room on the drivers side most people go passenger side as it's easier.

Actually for the life of me I can't figure out why no one has managed to build a decent oil/water cooler. Makes much more sense than the oil/air ones...

Speaking of oil/water cooler is there anyone out there who has blanked off the stock one?

Oh and my set up is the same as BBGTR's.

there is a very decent oil/water cooler. PWR make one for 32 GTR. Mark and Russ have one in their GTR and by all accounts it works very well. according to Mark they don't see oil or water temp above 100C. and I have seen them string plenty of laps together in one session. :yes: Plus they have big power and would certainly be putting some serious heat into their oil and water.

Actually for the life of me I can't figure out why no one has managed to build a decent oil/water cooler. Makes much more sense than the oil/air ones...

Speaking of oil/water cooler is there anyone out there who has blanked off the stock one?

Oh and my set up is the same as BBGTR's.

yes...ive taken all that shit off and run an RB20 filter block (alloy filter mount that bolts to the engine block)

there is a very decent oil/water cooler. PWR make one for 32 GTR. Mark and Russ have one in their GTR and by all accounts it works very well. according to Mark they don't see oil or water temp above 100C. and I have seen them string plenty of laps together in one session. :yes: Plus they have big power and would certainly be putting some serious heat into their oil and water.

I asked about that system, but I don't want to run a lard arse radiator with unshrouded fans to accomodate it. Plus I have issued a Jihad on PWR after some intercooler bollocks.

There appear to be some other options that bleed off some of the radiator flow & use that. No idea where you would manage to install it in a GT-R engine bay, however.

I have the sandwich plate for the oil cooler so I guess that still bolts up ok to the RB20 filter block?

yes...i still run the oil filter relocator...ive just removed the thermoblock and cooler core from the circuit as its not required for drag. Getting the oil up to temp in the pits before a run was fouling my plugs.

I asked about that system, but I don't want to run a lard arse radiator with unshrouded fans to accomodate it. Plus I have issued a Jihad on PWR after some intercooler bollocks.

There appear to be some other options that bleed off some of the radiator flow & use that. No idea where you would manage to install it in a GT-R engine bay, however.

fair enough. I do know from experience PWR can be a bit hit and miss to deal with. they have some nice products though. maybe worth shelving the holy war on paul weel and just give in as it's a known performer. I agree it's a bit of a beast but by golly it works well enough for mark and russ and they are making 150% of the horsepower of most of us, and I know they punt their car pretty hard.

fair enough. I do know from experience PWR can be a bit hit and miss to deal with. they have some nice products though. maybe worth shelving the holy war on paul weel and just give in as it's a known performer. I agree it's a bit of a beast but by golly it works well enough for mark and russ and they are making 150% of the horsepower of most of us, and I know they punt their car pretty hard.

Hey don't get me wrong, I have a completely different Jihad out on Paul Weel after some piss poor performances in an SBR car a while back.....

I continually change my mind on the whole oil/water, oil/air thing. On the one hand it is the best solution from a temp point of view. On the other I hate the thought of mixing oil & water. I have an AU Foulcan 's worth of experience with that.

On the third hand ;) it isn't cold enough to need any heating in normal operation and it is fine for sprints etc.

On the fourth :spank: the oil/air unit doesn't do fk all to reduce oil temps once the car is parked up.

But then again I guess the oil gets cooled indirectly through the galleries..

Oh crap I have a headache again. :yes:

Edited by djr81

DJR,

i have removed the stock oil water cooler and put a remote filter set up in its place, little bit of dickin round with the adaptor for the threads but nothing major.

I have now installed a Mocal oil to water heat exchanger this i have installed in series with the water flow from the radiator into the engine. along with this i have a electric pump in series with the mechanical pump which turns on at 85 degrees. Seems to work well at the momment. Set up required to install quite a bit of extra piping as electric pump is installed in front of passenger wheel, increased the volume to about 10 litres in total. And i need it over here going to be 45 for the next 4 months :-)

the best way I reckon for 32 GTR is as per jenkies one. mine is mounted that way too (it's a trust kit too) and I haven't had any problem with it in 4 years or so of use. one other piece of advice for jenkies is you need to open up the inner guard behind the core so the air can escape. either cut a section out and replace with mesh or swiss cheese it with some 30mm holes.

thanks beer baron its on my list of to do's.... since i bought the car i havnt had a liscence so it doesnt get driven much except around the block to circulate oil. 43 more days to go woo hoo... might get stuck into that rear duct this w/e. so the hot air can escape and flow throught much better....

:yes:

That is one of the best installs i have seen. Its a credit to you or your mechanic. So many people install their coolers in a way to damage them after hours of use hot

Thanks mate; thats nice of you to say. I spent a lot of time on the install.

I agree with the other guys that said the oil will drain back and create an airlock in the system after i turn the engine off, but i couldnt see any way around it. There wasnt room for the fittings at the top, and i wanted to drain dirty oil out anyway. When i turn the key, i get 3kg/cm3 immediately, and then full oil pressure about half a second later. Its a bit of a trade off i think.

Shaun.

No talk about how the crazy japs put the cooler on my car? :rofl:

no lies under 90c at the track, i have both water and oil defi's set with warning @ 95c

they got close but were both around 90!

not to mention that its pretty easy to drain except where they mounted my oil filter thats a pain in the ass.

Edited by Angus Smart

I'm not so keen on your spot andrew. very prone to damage, I also question how much good airflow it's actually receiving there especially considering on that angle it's only showing a very small frontal area.

Yeah i agree its position isnt the best for damage etc tho it is tucked away a little.. and isnt the lowest part on the car.

its cooling seems to be rather good! i was considering building an alloy shroud for it but it kept around 90c at eastern creek on a 26c day

i'm going to leave it for now but if i do hit something its going to be costly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...