Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

agreed. mounting it in front of of even behind the radiator is not a good plan. it wont get good clean airflow and it will just starve the radiator of air even more. for a 32 GTR the side ducts are the only way to go really. and considering there is bugger alll room on the drivers side most people go passenger side as it's easier.

Actually for the life of me I can't figure out why no one has managed to build a decent oil/water cooler. Makes much more sense than the oil/air ones...

Speaking of oil/water cooler is there anyone out there who has blanked off the stock one?

Oh and my set up is the same as BBGTR's.

there is a very decent oil/water cooler. PWR make one for 32 GTR. Mark and Russ have one in their GTR and by all accounts it works very well. according to Mark they don't see oil or water temp above 100C. and I have seen them string plenty of laps together in one session. :yes: Plus they have big power and would certainly be putting some serious heat into their oil and water.

Actually for the life of me I can't figure out why no one has managed to build a decent oil/water cooler. Makes much more sense than the oil/air ones...

Speaking of oil/water cooler is there anyone out there who has blanked off the stock one?

Oh and my set up is the same as BBGTR's.

yes...ive taken all that shit off and run an RB20 filter block (alloy filter mount that bolts to the engine block)

there is a very decent oil/water cooler. PWR make one for 32 GTR. Mark and Russ have one in their GTR and by all accounts it works very well. according to Mark they don't see oil or water temp above 100C. and I have seen them string plenty of laps together in one session. :yes: Plus they have big power and would certainly be putting some serious heat into their oil and water.

I asked about that system, but I don't want to run a lard arse radiator with unshrouded fans to accomodate it. Plus I have issued a Jihad on PWR after some intercooler bollocks.

There appear to be some other options that bleed off some of the radiator flow & use that. No idea where you would manage to install it in a GT-R engine bay, however.

I have the sandwich plate for the oil cooler so I guess that still bolts up ok to the RB20 filter block?

yes...i still run the oil filter relocator...ive just removed the thermoblock and cooler core from the circuit as its not required for drag. Getting the oil up to temp in the pits before a run was fouling my plugs.

I asked about that system, but I don't want to run a lard arse radiator with unshrouded fans to accomodate it. Plus I have issued a Jihad on PWR after some intercooler bollocks.

There appear to be some other options that bleed off some of the radiator flow & use that. No idea where you would manage to install it in a GT-R engine bay, however.

fair enough. I do know from experience PWR can be a bit hit and miss to deal with. they have some nice products though. maybe worth shelving the holy war on paul weel and just give in as it's a known performer. I agree it's a bit of a beast but by golly it works well enough for mark and russ and they are making 150% of the horsepower of most of us, and I know they punt their car pretty hard.

fair enough. I do know from experience PWR can be a bit hit and miss to deal with. they have some nice products though. maybe worth shelving the holy war on paul weel and just give in as it's a known performer. I agree it's a bit of a beast but by golly it works well enough for mark and russ and they are making 150% of the horsepower of most of us, and I know they punt their car pretty hard.

Hey don't get me wrong, I have a completely different Jihad out on Paul Weel after some piss poor performances in an SBR car a while back.....

I continually change my mind on the whole oil/water, oil/air thing. On the one hand it is the best solution from a temp point of view. On the other I hate the thought of mixing oil & water. I have an AU Foulcan 's worth of experience with that.

On the third hand ;) it isn't cold enough to need any heating in normal operation and it is fine for sprints etc.

On the fourth :spank: the oil/air unit doesn't do fk all to reduce oil temps once the car is parked up.

But then again I guess the oil gets cooled indirectly through the galleries..

Oh crap I have a headache again. :yes:

Edited by djr81

DJR,

i have removed the stock oil water cooler and put a remote filter set up in its place, little bit of dickin round with the adaptor for the threads but nothing major.

I have now installed a Mocal oil to water heat exchanger this i have installed in series with the water flow from the radiator into the engine. along with this i have a electric pump in series with the mechanical pump which turns on at 85 degrees. Seems to work well at the momment. Set up required to install quite a bit of extra piping as electric pump is installed in front of passenger wheel, increased the volume to about 10 litres in total. And i need it over here going to be 45 for the next 4 months :-)

the best way I reckon for 32 GTR is as per jenkies one. mine is mounted that way too (it's a trust kit too) and I haven't had any problem with it in 4 years or so of use. one other piece of advice for jenkies is you need to open up the inner guard behind the core so the air can escape. either cut a section out and replace with mesh or swiss cheese it with some 30mm holes.

thanks beer baron its on my list of to do's.... since i bought the car i havnt had a liscence so it doesnt get driven much except around the block to circulate oil. 43 more days to go woo hoo... might get stuck into that rear duct this w/e. so the hot air can escape and flow throught much better....

:yes:

That is one of the best installs i have seen. Its a credit to you or your mechanic. So many people install their coolers in a way to damage them after hours of use hot

Thanks mate; thats nice of you to say. I spent a lot of time on the install.

I agree with the other guys that said the oil will drain back and create an airlock in the system after i turn the engine off, but i couldnt see any way around it. There wasnt room for the fittings at the top, and i wanted to drain dirty oil out anyway. When i turn the key, i get 3kg/cm3 immediately, and then full oil pressure about half a second later. Its a bit of a trade off i think.

Shaun.

No talk about how the crazy japs put the cooler on my car? :rofl:

no lies under 90c at the track, i have both water and oil defi's set with warning @ 95c

they got close but were both around 90!

not to mention that its pretty easy to drain except where they mounted my oil filter thats a pain in the ass.

Edited by Angus Smart

I'm not so keen on your spot andrew. very prone to damage, I also question how much good airflow it's actually receiving there especially considering on that angle it's only showing a very small frontal area.

Yeah i agree its position isnt the best for damage etc tho it is tucked away a little.. and isnt the lowest part on the car.

its cooling seems to be rather good! i was considering building an alloy shroud for it but it kept around 90c at eastern creek on a 26c day

i'm going to leave it for now but if i do hit something its going to be costly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...