Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Almost done removing the turbo's of an RB26, done it all myself to this point, proven quite painfull...

Question is, in order to drop the front turbo down, to get access to the lower manifold bolts i need to either move or undo the a/c line.. unless there is another way around this i havn't seen? I've got some pics attached of what it all looks like, any advice on where to move forward would be awesome! Thanks.

post-4555-1209547410_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217137-help-rb26-turbo-removal/
Share on other sites

is it only that bolt mount fouling? I'm pretty sure it will bend that much easily.

having said that I've never done turbos off a gtr with ac....

Well from what i can tell its only that one, the back of the turbo seems to move fairly freely. It isn't overly flexible, if i undo the main bolt and twist it then it will move but makes some hissing sounds as the gas escapes a little... lol

no just leave it bolted in and lever it out of the way. only needs to move a few mm by the looks of it.

btw don't you have further issues ahead? I'm pretty sure you need to remove rear turbo first or undo the oil and water line from the block (which is a bastard to put back later)

Yep..!! watch that compressor outlet pipe, mine was fragile, .......and needs the crack in it repairing,.... when I can locate someone to do it... without scalping my wallet..!

If only you were an SAU NSW Club Member... You could have had my one for free hs.gif

Get that back turbo out first from underneath - you do not need to slacken off the rear manifold.

The front turbo dump will be restricted by the rear turbo. Once it is out you will be able to play with angles a bit more.

You may first need to slacken off the front manifold (have been told you can do it without which I can believe after finishing the job).

Once I had everything slackened off and the rear turbo out I was able to angle the front turbo down past the AC.

Get that back turbo out first from underneath - you do not need to slacken off the rear manifold.

The front turbo dump will be restricted by the rear turbo. Once it is out you will be able to play with angles a bit more.

You may first need to slacken off the front manifold (have been told you can do it without which I can believe after finishing the job).

Once I had everything slackened off and the rear turbo out I was able to angle the front turbo down past the AC.

Thanks for that info mate ill give it a go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...