Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay i'll start off by saying whats up to everyone. I have a s13 with a rb20 in it, and if runs like shit. I blew the headgasket last fall and over the winter i did a little build up on it.

Head gasket

ported head

10.2 lift kelford cams with springs

hks low mount

60-1

hks wastegate

custom front facing intake manifold

q45 tb

fmic

Grand national coil conversion

aeromotive fuel regulator

Now for the problem

hard starting problem-no matter how long i crank it over it wont start until i give it some throttle

Idles really low or really high- Seems to get worse when you warm it up

sputtering or surging problem- I think the GN coil conversion fixed that, i havnt drove the car long enough since.

Feels like my timing is off

I have checked for boost and vac leaks, tps adjustment, took apart my iacv, messed with timing

If i adjust me tps to .40 or anywhere with the idle switch engaged it idles really low and hunts, also when ever my e-fans kick on it kills the engine. if i adjust to where the idle switch isnt engaged then it wont die when the fans kick on but it will idle a little high.

When i took the iac valve apart it was pretty clean put the spring seemed weak. It pushed the valve closed but i could move it a little further with a screw driver.

When i adjust my timing it jumps around, If i set it in the middle and then put a timing light on it is past all the marks on the crank pulley. I live in the u.s.a. so i cant take it to any shop to have it fixed. I know a lot about cars but this doesnt make any sense to me. I thought it could be because the alternator wasnt putting out amps to push to efans but i upgraded it to a nissan quest 110 amp alt and it still does the same thing.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217256-help-me-car-runs-like-crap/
Share on other sites

and what are you using to tune the car with??

start with clean AFM, Spark plug gap 0.8mm. Wouldnt 10.2 lift cams required a lifter change as well..(not sure about that)

What turbo? what PSI?

What Air fuel ratio

have you dynoed it to see whats going on,

compression tested??

Did it ever run right??

checked intercooler pipes for leaks?

Edited by race_snooze

If you blew a head gasket, did you check that the head was still flat?

Have you checked compression? What ECU are you running?

There are 2 parts to the TPS - Switch and Sensor. Adjust the Switch to control idle (tells the ECU throttle has closed).

Big lift cams probably wouldn't be helping matters at all.

So far im running a stock comuter and injectors but im just trying to get the damn thing to run idle decent before i spend more money on something that isnt going to fix the problem.

i put new plugs gapped to .8mm allread

I took the head into the machine shop they check it for crackes and warpage. They had to maching out the around the lobes so it would clear. I put the right kelford springs to go in i wasnt told anything about changing the lifters out. ???

Im running a 60-1 turbo. .63 turbine and .70 compressor Hks 50mm wastegate on a 10 psi spring.

Im waiting for my wideband to show up. i dont want to dyno it yet until i get a gold tune and atleast make it street friendly.

I will do a compression test again. I havnt been able to get it to run right since i put all of this stuff on the car.

I have built two leak tester and checked it all the way up to 10-15 psi with only tiny buddles around the the welds but nothing major. and around the iacv valve but i put a new gasket on it and was fine.

I know that there are two parts to a tps when i adjust it to when the idle switch is on it idle really low but when i adjust it to where the idle switch isnt on it idles really high.

My coils were fried so instead of buying a new set i ran a wasted spark setup by taking a Grand national coil pack and wires. l_d8d710e70841348ac850f2b2ecb3d61f.jpg

The wires arnt installed in the picture yet but that my ignition setup. It gets everthing away from heat. i put the pick up on the no1 wire right by the plug. I really apriecate your help thanks

Edited by mott6904

Stock Computer & Injectors ??? Im surprised it starts at all!! I'm definitely no expert but I'd say that would be the major problem...

I'd be investing in a decent ecu & injectors as a minimum...... edit: and a higher flowing fuel pump

And I thought you had to change to solid lifters with cams that big in a 20? I know you do with the 25's....

Your running substancial cams

Bigger Throttle body/plenum

(possibly upped fuel pressure via the FPR)

All on the stock ECU?

I think thats your problem right there mate.

Without giving it justice of a tune to setup and compensate for the massive changes - the stock ECU will be having an absolute fit

yea that is what i was begining to think, since i have to adjust my tps higher to get it to idle decent that is adding more fuel just to make it idle better. I really just dont have the money to spend on this car right know. There is a guy around me that burn eproms for like 120 and he will solder in the board and then do all the updates that is needed. I just need to save up for some good 700-800 cc injectors and also a z32 maf. I will keep you guys posted also if there is anything you can think of then let me know. thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...