Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan: Base Model Gt-r Does 7:29 At Nurburgring

sewid

By sewid,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

Nissan Europe press released this just under an 2 hours ago.

If you're wondering why it's from Portugal, Nissan are holding some big fancy event there. The actual laptime was set mid April...

[May. 01, 2008 - 11:00 AM CET]

GT-R ACHIEVES UNDER 7:30 AT NURBURGRING

- GT-R among the fastest ever production road cars at the ‘Ring’ -

(CASCAIS, Portugal, 1st May 2008) - Nissan today announced that its GT-R supercar achieved a lap time at the infamous Nurburgring in Germany of seven minutes and 29 seconds. Recorded on April 16 and 17, the GT-R used was a base specification car and fitted with the standard Japanese market tires. Driven by GT-R chief test driver Tochio Suzuki, this latest lap time beats the previous fastest time for the GT-R by nine seconds.

The previous best lap time for GT-R of 7:38, also driven by Suzuki, was one of the fastest laps achieved by a production car despite conditions being slightly damp on two corners.

“At last year’s testing, we were frustrated by the conditions at the Nurburgring, always believing that the GT-R could go under seven minutes 30 seconds.” said Kazutoshi Mizuno, Chief Vehicle Engineer for GT-R. “Below seven minutes 30 seconds, the GT-R proves it is among the fastest mass-production cars in the world. We set out to build a multi-performance supercar accessible to anyone, anytime and anywhere - I believe the GT-R has delivered that promise.”

Deliveries of the all-new GT-R began in Japan in December 2007. Sales in the US and Canada start in July and extend to Europe and other markets over the next 12 months.

Contact

For more information, please contact Neil Reeve on +41 79701 8287.

[email protected]

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
Nissan Europe press released this just under an 2 hours ago.

If you're wondering why it's from Portugal, Nissan are holding some big fancy event there. The actual laptime was set mid April...

Yeah, the Nissan 360.

Motortrend has some coverage.

skyline_man Enthusiast

skyline_man

Posted
Posted (edited)

Actually i am not surprised. Always had a hunch that Nissan held back with the 7.38min lap time. It's all a marketing strategy. They wanted to impress the world, but not too much or else no one would've believed them.

But now since so many tests of the GTR vs 911 turbo, Z06 etc have shown that the GTR canes them around every track tested so far and by up to 5 secs on short tracks such as Buttonwillow (Z06 boys are still calling foul play), Nissan decided that it's time to confess the 'real' potential of the GTR. If you extrapolate the times that the GTR beats cars such as the 911 turbo and Z06 on short tracks for example, to the much longer track Nurburgring, then its obvious that the GTR should of been a lot faster than the 2sec over the 911 turbo or 4sec over the Z06 at the Nurburgring. And that is taking into account the long stretch at the end of the course where the turbo and Z06 would've made up some time over the GTR.

Edited by skyline_man
ras1983 Experienced

ras1983

Posted
Posted

I dunno, I'll cop a lot of flack over this but 7:29 sounds a little too fast to be realistic. Remember the R33 breaking the 8 minute mark and then no one else being able to match the time? I just can't see the the R35 doing the 'ring that fast.

***PUTS ON FLAME SHIELD***

MADGT4 Mentor

MADGT4

Posted
Posted
geez, I wonder what the cordia trbo does it in :bunny:

Ask Roger

On a serious note though...

I'd like to see the video of it doing said time. Im 90% convinced it did it however i just want to see the proof too.

Either way big props to Nissan!

Cant wait to see what the V-Spec does now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...