Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im picking up a series 1 RB30 block,does the series 1 have oil squirters or is it the series 2 that has them? (piston)

No RB30's that I have ever seen have block mounted oil squirters, that's Commodore RB30E, Commodore RB30ET, Nissan Skyline RB30, Series 1 or Series 2. They all have the basic 1980's style conrod oil holes.

Is the series 1 block a good block to use in a 25/30 combo?

Any good block is a good block to use.

Cheers

Gary

there is another block that can be used, but it does require a fair ammount of work to the block to be able to adopt a twin cam head,its do-able and it weighs about 30ks heavier than a standard rb30 block, the cylinder walls are a shitload thicker than a conventional rb30 block and will last well over the 1000 wheel hp mark.....

this particular block comes with piston oil squiters.

2jz is in trouble now....

there is another block that can be used, but it does require a fair ammount of work to the block to be able to adopt a twin cam head,its do-able and it weighs about 30ks heavier than a standard rb30 block, the cylinder walls are a shitload thicker than a conventional rb30 block and will last well over the 1000 wheel hp mark.....

this particular block comes with piston oil squiters.

2jz is in trouble now....

And this mystery block is......?

And this mystery block is......?

My guess is RD28T, 2.8 litre (2825cc) turbo-charged diesel 6-cyl, bore: 85mm, stroke: 83mm.

I looked at it about 6 years ago, there is a lot of work required to fit the RB30 crank (86 mm stroke) and conrods. Plus the cylinder head studs don't line up with an RB25/26 head. The water jacket needs modifying and the oil feed will need some external help.

Cheers

Gary

thats teh 1, deisel, runs somthing like 22:1 compression. found in the nissan partol 92 models.... there is about 4 to 5 grand in block modification, there is a rear water jacket that needs to be welded up, and also 3 oil returns dont line up, need to modify the head aswell to compensate

Its too hard to fit oil jets to a RB30, I know of one shop that used five blocks before he found one that could take all size jets. The sand cast blocks of the RB30 was just to inconsistant with its core shift during casting for consistant fitting of the jets

alrite bud, you know everything

dont take it to heart mate, just saying, there are plenty of high powered RB30's out there, and its alot of work to get the RD28 block going with the 3 litre innards. i havent really heard of RB30 blocks letting go, bar those extreme cases of problems (tuning, oil contro, whatever), or extreme horsepower, but even with the latter there isnt an abudance of supporting evidence, not that i've seen anyway

  • 2 weeks later...

A friend of mine has a 25/30 setup.

Spec's are as follows,

STD Series 2 Block

STD rods and pistons (Motor has not been apart since god know's when)

RB25 head

STD Head ports

STD intake manifold

set of small cams

STD rb25 EX manifold

GT3540 0.86 rear

Haltech e11v2

044 pump

STD R33 box

H/D clutch

made 480HP on 20PSI pump fuel

Daily drive for the last 2 years @ 20psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might just check it out.. A Q among all those skylines.. lol
    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
×
×
  • Create New...