Jump to content
SAU Community

Aragosta


yokotas13
 Share

Recommended Posts

my personal experience with them has not been that great. personally I think they are very overpriced for what they are. some people seem to love them though. for 30 man you could have either got something better imo or saved some money and gotten something just as good from another maker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not many people make stagea specific parts

Im actually looking to track this car

i have some front and rear diffusers on the way

i have allt he supplies for full body undertrays and mounts, and many other aerodynamic goodies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tried and trusted?

not really

its too soft for my liking

unless i go way high up into the 4k range, it wont be how i want it, for a stagea application :w00t:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I kept you waiting for 2 days for a response, especially one that you knew was coming;

not many people make stagea specific parts

What so special about Stagea specific track springs and shocks?

Let's break it down to the individual components ;

Eibach make proper race quality coil springs in ID's from 50 mm to 75 mm, in rate increments of 25lbs/inch from 100 lbs/inch to over 3,000 lbs/inch. So you simply select the appropriate rate from that range, nothing Stagea specific there.

The top and bottom spring seats and the other coil over hardware are generic parts and a number of manufacturers (Bilstein, Koni, Eibach etc) have a range to suite the chosen spring diameters. Nothing Stagea specific there either.

The front shock body is dimensionally the same as R32/33/34 GTR, you simply select the valving to suite the spring rates you have chosen. Making sure it has a range of adjustment that covers all possible rate changes. Keeping in mind that the front swaybar is a spring as well and so it's rate has to be included in the damping requirement. Nothing Stagea specific in any of that.

The rear shock body is dimensionally the same as R33 GTST or R33GTR/R34GTT/R34GTR depending on which upright (hub) you are running. Once again you simply select the valving and adjustment to suite the range of spring rates you have chosen. As with the front, the rear swaybar rate has to be included in the damping requirement. Nothing Stagea specific in any of that either.

Keeping all of the above in mind, I can't see any need to suffer with an unsophisticated overpriced spring/shock combo as none of it is Stagea specific.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I checked from the back of the cluster and no reading there. I undid the connector and plugged in the wires directly to start from where I'm getting a reading: https://imgur.com/a/W8JI6Yr Weirdly enough when I tried to get a reading from the crimps that connect to the fuel pump assembly, I got nothing. Not sure what's my next step as I have admittedly limited knowledge with electricity. 
    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
×
×
  • Create New...