Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the question is what colour best represents the personality behind the car? As a designer I can say to all those that think Red goes faster, buy a F1 and get some advertising stickers on and say "Enzo is sleepin tight thinking how much money Malbro has raised on that red car" Yes the red is the advertising aggressive colour of choice. Just like the woman in red. But the 80?s are gone mannnnnnnn. So there is a bit of a mind bending going on when thinking what represents you as the driver, best. Yellow, green, black and so on. Take it from the movies. ?Allways bet on black? Snipes . Not bad. So is the attitude of the driver important. Hell yes!!! So what makes you feal that the people will stare. You paint it. Well we all know what the R stands for.

Now to technicality. Dark colour loose form and give total blended appearance of shape. So that is why fat people don?t wear stripes??.

Mass and volume is best defined by shadow and dynamics in the body line. To get that you need light and some definitive body. So why paint the skyline white. The answer is the what captures light and is cheaper choice for the manufacturer. Some engineering heating ratio principles apply but why bore you to death. That?s what climate control is for ha J Body kit helps but Skyline doesn?t need it.

But to stand out of the crowd you will think of yourself first. The car second. Money prefirst. Fixing scratches down the line third. And subjective ****ers making comments like, ?why paint the engineering miracle in a herbal tea drinking feminine issues lime green for **** sake. Even the old lemon didn?t deserve that treatment. Keep it clean kids!!!

?Life sucks get a helmet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...