Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just don't think it has done a 13.3 when people lie about things thats when people turn away from other things about the car..... just my 2 cents.....

as for the time slip doesn't mean anything nonsense in my experience of the human ethics you would be pratically saying that it never ran a 13.3 with that statement....

-bryan

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by BryanB

i just don't think it has done a 13.3 when people lie about things thats when people turn away from other things about the car..... just my 2 cents.....  

as for the time slip doesn't mean anything nonsense in my experience of the human ethics you would be pratically saying that it never ran a 13.3 with that statement....

-bryan

well as you know at jamboree at the tower it works on a honesty system to collect your time slips.

if you would like please feel free to watch the video of the run that was a 13.3 at 110mph that we have and alos of other cars on the day.

perhaps it is because you car cant do 13 or even a low 14 dont coment unless you have the fact to back it up.

you cant coment on what you think if you dont have the truth of what the car did a 13.3 at 110mph as we do.

we had $17000 to start off people just want to get a cra even cheaper than what it is. they forget that people in the import indusrty know what car sell for and now with the new laws how much the cost just to comply. people dont realise the cra is cheap they wont find cheaper in QLD

but thanks i might put it back up and try that

well all i can say is check my car out, compaire it to yours...you will see that yours worth the same as mine...roughly anyway.

im not adding my car in your post, i just want you to see it, i hate poeple loosing out when they shouldnt.

well all i can say is check my car out, compaire it to yours...you will see that yours worth the same as mine...roughly anyway.

im not adding my car in your post, i just want you to see it, i hate poeple loosing out when they shouldnt.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=20432

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...