Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys...I know there are a number of similar topics like this on the forums, but I am interested in getting a set of wheels... I just wanted to know if gts4's or gtrs can have rims with staggered widths.... i.e 17*9 in the front and 17*10 in the back and not wear out the 4wd system?

I have seen pics with gtrs having some skinny rims on the front and massive 

deep dish rims on the rear... I thought the 4wd computer would constantly bring torque to the front wheels because of different widths and weights and eventually your 4wd system will wear out.

Something I am curious about just due to the amount of rims that come through th

se 

forum but they are mostly thinner in the front then the rear....

And just for the record I don't want to make mine a 2wd to use different width rims...

Thanks,

Adam

P.S sorry admins if this is the wrong section... didn't think it counted as a tyre or suspension problem...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218622-quick-question-about-gtrs-and-gts4s/
Share on other sites

I've got 9's on the rear, 8.5's on the front, no probs with the attessa system, but my front and rear tyres are the same profile 235/45's. I think the important thing is getting the rolling diameters of both basically the same.

Depends on profile. Easiest way to get an approx value is:

235/45R17

(235 x .45)x 2) + (25.4 x 17) = 643 mm Overall diameter. Pi x D = circumference. 643 x 3.14 = 2019 mm

Please note these are approx and will vary between Brand & pattern.

Edited by Potenza
...

Please note these are approx and will vary between Brand & pattern.

Believe this as well. I had 235/45/17's all round on the same size rims, fronts were new, backs were old, different brands. Still made the 4wd freak.

crap.... so when you say freak... like the steering wheel was constantly really tight?... i.e lots of torque being moved to the front?

I heard some people make their tires a tiny bit bigger or smaller on either the front or the back to give a good constant amount of awd traction..because it is tricking the system....

I have no problem if the 4wd system is always on... but ONLY if it wont wear it out faster then normal... because some people say there is always a little bit of torque going to the front... in which case im sure i'd be ok if i get staggered wheels because the 4wd system is on permanently anyway...

but I have also heard a lot of comments that it will only kick in "when neccessary" in which case i believe the system would wear out quicker if it is not permanently meant to be on...

someone must have the dead set answer?

Adam

I've got 9's on the rear, 8.5's on the front, no probs with the attessa system, but my front and rear tyres are the same profile 235/45's. I think the important thing is getting the rolling diameters of both basically the same.
Doesn't matter that the tyres are the same size. Being on different width rims, they will have slightly different rolling diameters.

The rolling diameter for a given tyre (manufacture / width / profile) is based on a particular sized rim. And different manufacturers use different sized rims as the "standard" for the same size tyre. when you move away from the "standard" rim ie widr / narrower), triangulation changes the effective sidewall height, so the "effective" profile changes, and the rolling diameter changes.

As has been said too many times - SAME SIZE TYRE ON SAME SIZE RIM ON EVERY CORNER.

Doesn't matter that the tyres are the same size. Being on different width rims, they will have slightly different rolling diameters.

The rolling diameter for a given tyre (manufacture / width / profile) is based on a particular sized rim. And different manufacturers use different sized rims as the "standard" for the same size tyre. when you move away from the "standard" rim ie widr / narrower), triangulation changes the effective sidewall height, so the "effective" profile changes, and the rolling diameter changes.

As has been said too many times - SAME SIZE TYRE ON SAME SIZE RIM ON EVERY CORNER.

Meh you have a link to calculate the difference? As I would be interested. it makes sense, but it's the first i've heard of it. Even the tyre place down here steered me wrong with these rims I was running. specifically asked if the higher profile tyres on my rear rims would affect the attessa the rolling diameters difference was about 5mm they said no. and of course as soon as I left my attessa played up. After switching to my old tyres, with the same profile it settled down back to normal.

Although on the 32 the 4wd system is only part time, it doesn't constantly deliver a portion of torque to the front, which I think the 33 does. Incidently found out on checking again, my front rims are 8 inches and my backs are 9's, and the attessa system works as before when I had 9 inch rims all round.

crap.... so when you say freak... like the steering wheel was constantly really tight?... i.e lots of torque being moved to the front?

I heard some people make their tires a tiny bit bigger or smaller on either the front or the back to give a good constant amount of awd traction..because it is tricking the system....

I have no problem if the 4wd system is always on... but ONLY if it wont wear it out faster then normal... because some people say there is always a little bit of torque going to the front... in which case im sure i'd be ok if i get staggered wheels because the 4wd system is on permanently anyway...

but I have also heard a lot of comments that it will only kick in "when neccessary" in which case i believe the system would wear out quicker if it is not permanently meant to be on...

someone must have the dead set answer?

Adam

Freak = a very pronounced surgeing, both on the gauge, and through the backside. I can't imagine it being that much fun for the transfer case either.

I thought it might have been a fuel prob, but pulled the 4wd fuse and it went away. Swapped rims front to back and put fuse back in and it was all good.

Thats wot I was afraid of hearing... so GTRs that have staggered width rims... wots the go with that?

its ok to have staggered widths as long as the tyres rolling diameter is the same or have slightly larger at the rears (dont know if reaction times of attessa is affected)can be used.

Ideal is to have same widths of rims with same tyres all 4 round. if u need to rotate rims front to back wont be a problem as with staggered rims doing the same thing, in cases of rears tyres wearing out faster than fronts.

When i got my gtr it had staggered widths and the altessa worked fine , but when u were full into it the front wheels lost grip before the rear which annoyed me , now i got the same size rubber on all 4 corners and now when u lose grip the car slide nice and even , i think having staggered rim threw the balance of the car out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...