Jump to content
SAU Community

At What Point Do I Need An N1 Block?

Antimatter
 Share

Recommended Posts

Antimatter Experienced

Antimatter

Posted
Posted (edited)

Guys - as always, I enjoy the banter so.....

I am building a RB26 with the usuals:

Wiseco Forged pistons

Eagle Rods

R33 Crank

Tomei Head Gasket

N1 water pump

N1 oil pump

ACL Bearings

Stock Reco Head

Adjustable cam gears

Standard 05U Block (to be bored to first O/S / 86.5)

Turbos - still deciding -5's or -7's (or equivelent)

(would love a set of AX53B70's - anybody got some?)

Blah blah etc.

Will have the fuel and ecu to support plenty of power.

Anyway... question is:

At what point (power lever, type of usage etc) should I be considering a N1 block?

Your opinion matters ;)

What do you guys think?

Edited by Antimatter
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219038-at-what-point-do-i-need-an-n1-block/
Share on other sites
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Not at those power levels ;)

Well above 400, 450 even

the fastest drag skyline in this country makes over 1200hp

our car is producing over 900hp

both run STD 05U Nissan blocks

N1's have a lot of wank factor in my opinion.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
So I can make a 400kw on a standard block? is there any "special" prep for that sort of power? I.e that grouting / cement I hear about.

you can "hardbloc" it as i have done to a few...

but a correctly set-up engine that is properly balanced will go a long way to saving your block.

apoligies for the double post...

Hi Ash ;)

Edited by DiRTgarage
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
i personally would pick a tomei or JUN oil pump over a N1 oil pump

ur rebuilding the engine so u may as well spend abit more and get some thing stronger

N1 oil pumps are just fine on a street engine as long as 8000rpm is not exceeded too often and a decent balancer is used.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Well my car (who was owned by Mik before me) cracked his stock block at 370 KW at the rears with a Tomei stroker. However this was a Series 3 R33 and from what i can gather these blocks were quite porous

STR8E180 Proficient

STR8E180

Posted
Posted
N1 oil pumps are just fine on a street engine as long as 8000rpm is not exceeded too often and a decent balancer is used.

i know a few people who have been threw more then 1 or 2 N1 oil pumps B4 going tomei oil pump

these are street cars that dont see over 8000rpm

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
i know a few people who have been threw more then 1 or 2 N1 oil pumps B4 going tomei oil pump

these are street cars that dont see over 8000rpm

and probably were wearing 13-15 year old rubber balancers on them that were doing little more than helping the belts go round on the front of the engine.

So many engines rebuilt with dodgy balancers slapped back on them without a thought.

I raced for over 3 years with an N1 at over 8500rpm not a problem. Engine was built by me and properly balanced with a new harmonic balancer fitted.

They are not indestructable but if engine is properly built and ran correctly they survive fine in a street application.

Yes the Tomei pumps are good...out of the aftermarket the Tomei and JUN are definately the pick of them.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Antimatter Experienced

Antimatter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK... so I am getting some thumbs down on my oil pump... ANYWAY

Looks like my block will put up with me screwing the guts out of a pair of -5's?

i wouldnt risk using a N1 oil pump, spend the extra on sumthin better for sure.
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
i wouldnt risk using a N1 oil pump, spend the extra on sumthin better for sure.

How many R34 N1 engines fracture oil pumps?...none that ive heard of...why not?

well balanced engine with good quality fresh balancer on the front.

its harmonic crank vibration that kills oil pumps...the higher the revs the worse the problem.

id spend the extra $600 on an ATI balancer and stick with your N1.

this is free advice from someone who has done a lot of work, testing and research on this very issue. At quite a bit of expense.

Edited by DiRTgarage
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
How many R34 N1 engines fracture oil pumps?...none that ive heard of...why not?

well balanced engine with good quality fresh balancer on the front.

its harmonic crank vibration that kills oil pumps...the higher the revs the worse the problem.

id spend the extra $600 on an ATI balancer and stick with your N1.

this is free advice from someone who has done a lot of work, testing and research on this very issue. At quite a bit of expense.

Am i buying an ATI balancer now Paul? lol

Antimatter Experienced

Antimatter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Maybe I will start a thread on oil pumps :(

Anyway - to look at my original question about the blocks.... what is it that hurts them?

I have a block that came out a car that would have not been making much more than 300kw. Block cracked between the waterjacket and the bore number 2, filled the bore with water (at revs), and ended with a piston sized hole in the side of the block....

It was a stock motor that was obviously leant on. What a way to go though... BOOM!

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      How can I remove this adhesive?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      My first thought is to use something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/goof-off-177ml-adhesive-remover_p1580913
    • PranK
      How can I remove this adhesive?

      By PranK · Posted

      Here it is nice and clean and for shits n giggles he's the clearly structural piece of trim it was holding down. 😬    
    • PranK
      How can I remove this adhesive?

      By PranK · Posted

      A lot of the trim pieces on the E39 are super brittle and just dissolve when you try to get them off. It looks like a previous owner has used what can only be described as an industrial construction foam adhesive to glue down a tiny piece of trim.  Unfortunately this part of the tailgate is starting to rust because of how much shit is in here. This is stopping the water draining and there's a big build-up of dirt that is just staying wet. How can I remove this? Would a flap disc get rid of this?  I think this car spent a lot of time inland. There's so much light coloured, fine dirt and dust everywhere.  Sorry for the pic. I've cleaned this all up now so I'll get another pic of it clean today.
    • GTSBoy
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.
    • GTSBoy
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.
×
×
  • Create New...