Jump to content
SAU Community

At What Point Do I Need An N1 Block?

Antimatter
 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Maybe I will start a thread on oil pumps :(

Anyway - to look at my original question about the blocks.... what is it that hurts them?

I have a block that came out a car that would have not been making much more than 300kw. Block cracked between the waterjacket and the bore number 2, filled the bore with water (at revs), and ended with a piston sized hole in the side of the block....

It was a stock motor that was obviously leant on. What a way to go though... BOOM!

:P

I'd imagine there would be quite a number of big RPM launches behind the car that split the block around that point :)

luke20t Collaborator

luke20t

Posted
Posted
How many R34 N1 engines fracture oil pumps?...none that ive heard of...why not?

well balanced engine with good quality fresh balancer on the front.

its harmonic crank vibration that kills oil pumps...the higher the revs the worse the problem.

id spend the extra $600 on an ATI balancer and stick with your N1.

this is free advice from someone who has done a lot of work, testing and research on this very issue. At quite a bit of expense.

i dont know of many r34's but i have heard of N1 r33 with smiliar problems.

why not spend a little extra for better peace of mind.

rob82 standard r32 oil pumps are weak as

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
i dont know of many r34's but i have heard of N1 r33 with smiliar problems.

why not spend a little extra for better peace of mind.

rob82 standard r32 oil pumps are weak as

Are you saying that because the r32 have the small oil pump drive or because you geniunely know that the pumps are weak? So R33 GTR oil pumps are fine?

Brockas Proficient

Brockas

Posted
Posted
How many R34 N1 engines fracture oil pumps?...none that ive heard of...why not?

Well, now you have.

R34 N1 motor, straight from Nissan, 15,000kms on the clock, cracked crank journal in the N1 pump.

Still have the pump sitting at home if you want pictures.

STR8E180 Proficient

STR8E180

Posted
Posted
How many R34 N1 engines fracture oil pumps?...none that ive heard of...why not?

well balanced engine with good quality fresh balancer on the front.

its harmonic crank vibration that kills oil pumps...the higher the revs the worse the problem.

id spend the extra $600 on an ATI balancer and stick with your N1.

this is free advice from someone who has done a lot of work, testing and research on this very issue. At quite a bit of expense.

im sure the N1 oil pump is good, i neva said it wasnt

all im saying is if ur going to rebuild ur engine and u have ur engine in piece's ur beter of spending that little bit extra and getting some thing better

this is coming from some one who runs a custom machined CNC stainless billet oil pump which has been heat treated

alot of research went into this oil pump the 1st one machined up had some problems with the valve staying closed but with more researching and testing we got it right

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I haven't heard of ONE pump failure among anyone here in Vic i know using them.

Being most of them DONT do big RPM launches and mainly track work or street... all of them have been totally fine.

Some of the users that posted here over the years about their failures were as Paul said... people with built "some" parts, and untouched 15yr old others.

And also a fair number at the same time were doing big launches @ the drags etc.

I've never seen a legit reason among many cars here to say a N1 isnt upto the task for moderate power ups.

Only people posting here without any idea of what thier build included or how they drive/treat the car mostly

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
and probably were wearing 13-15 year old rubber balancers on them that were doing little more than helping the belts go round on the front of the engine.

So many engines rebuilt with dodgy balancers slapped back on them without a thought.

I raced for over 3 years with an N1 at over 8500rpm not a problem. Engine was built by me and properly balanced with a new harmonic balancer fitted.

They are not indestructable but if engine is properly built and ran correctly they survive fine in a street application.

Yes the Tomei pumps are good...out of the aftermarket the Tomei and JUN are definately the pick of them.

I agree with Paul, we must have used over 30 N1 oil pumps over the years and not had 1 single falilue. Why not us? Carefull balancing of the engine and a decent harmonic balancer are the only answers I have as well.

Cheers

Gary

RPMGTR Community Regular

RPMGTR

Posted
Posted

You can break ANY oil pump in an RB if you try hard enough!

We have broken them all... Jun, Tomei, HKS, N1, and standard ones too.

99.5% of the time it's due to the loose nut behind the wheel.

If you continually smash it on to the rev-limiter and it will break the pump.

If you are unsure why it broke (as no-one ever thrashes their new engines!), have a look at the drive faces inside the gear.

Tell-tale sign is wear on the driveside AND non driveside of the gear....thats what the rev-limiter/launch control does!

cheers

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
You can break ANY oil pump in an RB if you try hard enough!

We have broken them all... Jun, Tomei, HKS, N1, and standard ones too.

99.5% of the time it's due to the loose nut behind the wheel.

If you continually smash it on to the rev-limiter and it will break the pump.

If you are unsure why it broke (as no-one ever thrashes their new engines!), have a look at the drive faces inside the gear.

Tell-tale sign is wear on the driveside AND non driveside of the gear....thats what the rev-limiter/launch control does!

cheers

thats how we finally broke ours...3 years of flogging it to death was not a problem...it was when we changed the set-up to a ignition cut launch limiter...it broke on the 2nd pass.

Brockas Proficient

Brockas

Posted
Posted
I agree with Paul, we must have used over 30 N1 oil pumps over the years and not had 1 single falilue. Why not us? Carefull balancing of the engine and a decent harmonic balancer are the only answers I have as well.

Cheers

Gary

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...view=getnewpost

Antimatter Experienced

Antimatter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

for the record the roundy roundy bits went outside because the bore filled with water.

I will post a pic tomorrow of where the water came from...

:(

lol worst or most?

btw I don't think a n1 block is able to keep roundy roundy bits inside when they let go any more than a standard one is :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...