Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mine is a plx system which i beleive to be the best deal around. $275 off ebay direct from the US. and if you get their gauge well wow is all i can say!

my sensor is sitting perfectly flat in the front pipe just before the cat. works a charm with datalogit!

PLX Devices

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i dont even know why anyone would buy anything other then a WBO2 product from www.wbo2.com

I have had mine for 13 months, i think the cable is buggard cos i run it through the door and the guy is soo good with his customers he is looking at it and replacing it for free.

They can even have input for 4 EGT thormocouples. 2mb logging... its THE shit.... and they are in canberra.

Edited by Guilt-Toy

yeah the wb02 stuff looks ace, i really dislike the power connector on that unit on the previous page, looks like it would come out of the socket very easily

that would be fatal to the 02 sensor if it did come out

what the plx one?

my plx device is just sensational. so easy to hook up and no mucking around at all. plus when i get the OLED display gauge for it and the rest of the PLX sensor systems my car is gonna be just like an aeroplane!

yeah the wb02 stuff looks ace, i really dislike the power connector on that unit on the previous page, looks like it would come out of the socket very easily

that would be fatal to the 02 sensor if it did come out

Yeah its great. The customer service from Peter @ techedge is awesome, he is allways willing to help. He is going to help set mine up to use k-type thermocouples, i sent mine back yesterday and should get it back fully working again by the end of the week!

what the plx one?

my plx device is just sensational. so easy to hook up and no mucking around at all. plus when i get the OLED display gauge for it and the rest of the PLX sensor systems my car is gonna be just like an aeroplane!

Yeah looks like the power cable can disconnect easily which will reduce the life of the sensor very fast.

WB02 is the only way to go, especially if your in australia!!

this one here

http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm100/smafrcombo/

you can see on the wb02 the power connector has a coupler, so it cant come undone

if the unit looses power while running, youll risk the 02 sensor as the heater circuit needs to be live

regarding installation places, make sure you have it the way the manual says

on my lc1 they are anal about not letting moisture pool on the sensor, so mine is mounted upright in the "12 oclock position"

i dont even know why anyone would buy anything other then a WBO2 product from www.wbo2.com

i was told that the WB02 products had unnecessary lag and that's why i chose to go innovate. however i really shouldn't have got the LC1 now that i know everyones experience's with them...

i dont even know why anyone would buy anything other then a WBO2 product from www.wbo2.com

I had a fist full of cash for Pete 5 years ago, though heard from a few very reputable tuners about their issues with rapid elevation changes messing with the output. I saw a calibrated techedge unit compared to a motec (the older design)

Left a dirty feeling in my mouth, and didn't want to risk my motor (or others) with a device from a mom and pop operation.

I know the US Rx7Club uses (used) em like hot cakes... but Innovative, PLX make sell a LOT more :D

Once bitten twice shy I guess.

Just my personal opinion from the device half a decade ago, i believe these comments fit within forum guidelines.

Intercool, have you had a LC failure?

no mine is still going (less than 5000km's old)

but every 2nd person out there say there's was working one day and just stops the next. i don't even know if i got warrantee on mine.

i did have an immense amount of problem trying to calibrate and update it, and this problem still exists. i just worked around it.

i don't know if i should have gone LM1, PLX, or WB02 now. but i definitely wouldnt chose the LC1

wbo2 all good never had any problems and yes good customer support . had mine for 2 years and always runs faultless.

How many hours as the sensor seen, how old is the sensor, have you checked it against a known good unit for accuracy and response time recently.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...