Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My turbo spatt the dummy yesterday , what happen was i was in a merging lane, and a truck wouldnt let me through, so its either get stuck behind the truck or get in front of it. Obviously good things come to those who wait... but with my impatients, i dump it into 2nd @ 60-70km/h. Car boosted and heard a loud backfire pop after i back off.

Now the car makes a weird az sucking sound. Its like your normal turbo spool sound but on a rhythm like a WRX burble. No i havent drop a cyclinder. Only makes the sound on boost and comes from turbo not engine or exhaust.

Im not blowing any smoke and the turbo is still boosting ( 10psi then, have now pulled it back to stock )... I've check the front wheel and got no shaft play side to side, but slightly back to front. The front wheel is perfectly fine with no defects.

So my conclusion is , i've done my Bearings over...

So my question is... Lots of people sed if you keep driving a car with a blown turbo your engine will eventually die and will need a rebuild ( something to do with ceramic dust, but i dont think my rear wheel is gone ) ?

Is that tru ? Even if i drive off-boost ??? Its my only daily round about and with uni/work. i need to get around. So is it ok to drive the car as long as its off boost ???

Any help be GREATFUL guys !!!

P.S: Anyone got a Highflow for sale ????

Edited by lilhaulerz
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

it only damages ur engine if any parts of the turbo drop back into the egine through the exhaust manifold when it blows but as a daily drive stay off boost... drive as lightly as possible and if u have a boost tap, wind it up so no boost is made. thats a safe way to stop doing any damage, but on the other hand this could be the perfect time to get a new turbo?

something ball bearing..

I didnt say it sounds like a WRX ... Read the post properly dude...i sed the sucking sound of the turbo is in a rhythm like a WRX... and its not the engine note or exhaust note, car sounds perfectly fine off boost and wen in neutral reving. Exhaust note is normal even on boost.

Its only when the turbo spools and on boost.. It goes shh shh shh shh shh instead of Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Plus if the turbo is making boost doesnt mean its fine. You can have warned and f**ked bearings and the car still makes boost... also noticebly less power

Edited by lilhaulerz

Well cant pull the engine apart to check inside, but tappets aint ticking, no oil or blow by, idles fine, no knocking or detonation, revs cleanly in neutral all way to red. And wen you drive the car. Engine feels and sounds completely normal off boost, even wen on boost, car feels normal as in operating normally. Just not as must OOMPH and turbo sounds like shit....

Wen i pulled all the cooler piping off, no oil or any bits in it. Exhaust note is normal. Car doesnt blow any smoke whats so ever.

I've did search and ask few mech friends and they sed turbo bearings are gone...

Although i forgot to mention.. prior to this the last month, the spooling sound has been gettin a louder whine/whistling to it. And feel not as fast as it use to be ( could be because im used to the power ) ... but i always thought it was like gasket leak. But check all mani bolts / turbo flange bolts ect... Its not a Exhaust leak sound. Its definately coming from Intake / spooling sound

Edited by lilhaulerz

Yep check all piping when i pulled it apart to check front turbine wheel... not losing vacumn on boost gauge, car would of stall and idle funny if i had cooler pipe blown off...holds boost fine too ( but i try not to try on boost now )

Edited by lilhaulerz

Turbos generally spin at up to 130,000rpm - any bearing issues will show up very quickly in a seized turbo / blown seals pissing oil everywhere.

Almost sounds like something loose in your intake - is there anything loose in the intake side of your intercooler?

Edited by paulR32gtr

How about loose nuts between the exhaust manifold and the turbo exhaust housing

I have had that on turbo cars where with this being loose, and the gasket flapping around making a pulsing sound...

definately coming from the intake... Cuz if thats the case, the intake sound wouldnt change if its nutz and bolts... The spooling sound/intake is making the noise. Also already checked all nuts and bolts to. just going to undo the cooler pipe on the hot side.. and check if anything is sitting at the cooler core.

If anything went through the Turbine fins would be super screwed...

Edited by lilhaulerz
Well cant pull the engine apart to check inside, but tappets aint ticking, no oil or blow by, idles fine, no knocking or detonation, revs cleanly in neutral all way to red. And wen you drive the car. Engine feels and sounds completely normal off boost, even wen on boost, car feels normal as in operating normally. Just not as must OOMPH and turbo sounds like shit....

Wen i pulled all the cooler piping off, no oil or any bits in it. Exhaust note is normal. Car doesnt blow any smoke whats so ever.

I've did search and ask few mech friends and they sed turbo bearings are gone...

Although i forgot to mention.. prior to this the last month, the spooling sound has been gettin a louder whine/whistling to it. And feel not as fast as it use to be ( could be because im used to the power ) ... but i always thought it was like gasket leak. But check all mani bolts / turbo flange bolts ect... Its not a Exhaust leak sound. Its definately coming from Intake / spooling sound

you need to be the sphincter of the universeslapped!

Heheh but little do you know my avatar... that money was loan money from bank to buy the car... lolzzz... wish i had that dosh.nt

Yeh i really wish i just be patient and let that truck go.. :wub: ... but i guess it would of happen sooner or later.

Car is pulling 201rwkw

Greddy front mount

SAFC2

Full zorst / 3" cat

intake & Cai

Walbro pump

and 10.5psi and spikes to 12-13psi...

I believe the turbo was at its time to go, it is 13years old and i guess the turbo spike doesnt help.

Whats with the the sphincter of the universe slapp ??? i say something wrong, even on load car revs cleanly to red, just flat power like N/A. ( not driving on boost anymore though )

Everyone has diff ways to diagnoise their car, i just figure if the car revs cleanly to red, even in neutral with no load... it would let me know if i drop a piston or dun a valve spring or something as the car would not rev cleanly.

But i aint going get into a forum argument that leads to no where... it doesnt help or fix my probs.. So you can the sphincter of the universe slapp me as much you like

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...