Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and gals

Sadly my pride and joy, R32 GTR V-Spec got wrote off after a stoopid HOLDEN Slammed into me 3 weeks ago, i have now bought another GTR however it's not a V Spec, and also bought my V Spec wreck back. the wreck has no damage to the engine,box etc, and was considering swapping the turbo's over. I was wondering if anyone knows the difference between the standard GTR turbo's and the V Spec Turbo's???

I think they should they bolt straight on but unsure if any customization would be needed for the aftermarket exhaust that is on the new car and was there any power difference with the V Spec turbo's????

Any help would be much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

im not 100% sure, but i think they are the same.

the N1 turbos had steel wheels as aposed to the ceramic ones on the standard turbos.

but im pretty sure the vspec still had the standard turbos.

sorry to hear about the unfortunate accident. hope it all works out for you.

cheers guys

i don't think i'll won't worry about changing them then, i think i'll sell the v spec as a repairable right off or as a half cut and for parts.

hers's a few pics of anyone is interested in a cheap R32 GTR V spec to repair. $11,000????

post-50117-1211273798_thumb.jpg

post-50117-1211273893_thumb.jpg

post-50117-1211273910_thumb.jpg

Edited by vspec_gtr32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...