Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im currently looking round for an exhaust for my stock r33 gtst.

havent got any modifications to it, im just about to start them.

first would be the exhaust, which brings me to ask you guys,

are the exhausts they sell at autobarn for the r33 gtst any good? im asking this cos i get autobarn items dirt cheap. would like to get value for my money.

this is not the muffler, it is an actual exhaust, however i dont know if it is from turbo back, or etc.

recommendations???

ta guys.

(next step is probably an intercooler in case anyone needs to know etc)

trent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219928-autobarn-exhausts/
Share on other sites

really depends what you are after, loud and "look at me" or bit more timid? dump and 3 inch front pipe, plus hi-flow cat are a must then from there back depends on how loud you want it. What brand is the autobarn stuff?

get any 3" cat back exhaust to suit a skyline then get yourself a BATMBL (bos importing) 3" split dump/frontpipe to match up with the 3" catback system

your local exhaust shop should be able to do you a decent 3" catback system with good flow for around $800 fitted

Yes those DRIFT branded autobarn exhaust are good value, far better that your local exhaust shop jobbie... they come with lifetime warranty etc...

i would not be happy to have the name plastered all over the car if i thought it was shit.

Autobarn can get all the major exhaust's that you would be able to get. Trust, Blitz, HKS (though the HKS ones are a bit hard to get now), Drift, X-Force etc. So it's not so much "Are autobarn exhausts any good" its wether the particular branded exhaust is any good.

thanks for the replies, i wasnt too sure what kind of exhausts they offer, but now seeing everyones replies, got an idea of what they may have now.

might be going for a trust exhaust, maybe hks if i can find them. which brands do u think would offer best performance?

BLITZ nur-r ($1000ish) is the nest performer, the GREDDY PEII ($799) is nice and quiet round town yet opens up under full noise the HKS is just stupid price wise locally so i would forget it.

these prices were accurate when i set them at autobarn head office proir to resigning in december.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, sorry for the minor hijack, but BATMBL isn't selling the dump/front pipes at the moment (supplier issues), so what would you guys recommend looking at next? I've looked at the JJR's split dumps, are they any good, and what's the diff b/w a split dump and a single? haha too many questions :thumbsup:

Split dump seperates the exhaust gases from the internal wastgate and joins it up near the end of the dump pipe. Should increase spool up and make more power.

All in one, or also called a bellmouth dump pipe, doesn't do this and all the gases just go through the same pipe.

go for a one peice front/dump pipe, its a bellmouth, spools up quicker, and when connected to a decent exhaust

system, they sound great, i picked my mild steel 1 peice up from a local sa supplier for $375.

Split dump seperates the exhaust gases from the internal wastgate and joins it up near the end of the dump pipe. Should increase spool up and make more power.

All in one, or also called a bellmouth dump pipe, doesn't do this and all the gases just go through the same pipe.

go for a one peice front/dump pipe, its a bellmouth, spools up quicker, and when connected to a decent exhaust

system, they sound great, i picked my mild steel 1 peice up from a local sa supplier for $375.

Did you guys basically say the opposite of each other :D or am i reading it wrong? LOL

Did you guys basically say the opposite of each other :D or am i reading it wrong? LOL

On a stock turbo the split dump pipes are better, they are ment to make more power. However on most aftermarket turbos the split dumps cause overboosting problems (mine did) and most people then go a bellmouth style dump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...