Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have spent a shitload on my engine and my motor will make a shitload of power...

rb30/26 into s15... now i want to be able to use the power, i know the front ends (structually) of the skyline and s chassis are different, i am familliar with both of the as i have owned numerous of each....

if i was to try and convert to a 4wd setup, would i have to run the skyline strut towers with the gtr suspension or would i be able to utilise somthing from all diferent nissan parts...

id like to utilise the s15 sturt towers as ive just had the car freshly painted including the engine bay.... would i be able to adopt some type of 4wd system using the s15 suspension with some type of gtr hub system????

also, id appreciate no smart ass comments like " just go buy yourself a gtr" been there, done that.... only helpful comments are appreciated...

regards

denis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220090-converting-s15-to-4wd/
Share on other sites

Putting the cost aside for a moment, unfortunately the mechanical engineering involved doesn't make this a "bolt in" proposition. You will need to change basically the entire suspension and steering system. You will also need to modify the transmission tunnel significantly.

There are also a lot of work with ancilliaries such as power steering, airconditioning etc. On the electrics side, probably will need to fit a GT-R loom and then add the sensors required by the ATTESSA system.

None of this work is really conducive to a car that has just bee repainted, much less the engine bay.

Putting the cost aside for a moment, unfortunately the mechanical engineering involved doesn't make this a "bolt in" proposition. You will need to change basically the entire suspension and steering system. You will also need to modify the transmission tunnel significantly.

There are also a lot of work with ancilliaries such as power steering, airconditioning etc. On the electrics side, probably will need to fit a GT-R loom and then add the sensors required by the ATTESSA system.

None of this work is really conducive to a car that has just bee repainted, much less the engine bay.

i have pretty much everything i need at hand, parts ect, i have a 26 harness aniways and im prepared to modify the tunnel. my only concern is the strut towers.........

a few weeks back there was a s15 for sale on here with a 26/30 and running gtr 4wd driveline, maybe have a search and send him a PM, it was a full on showcar and about 70k worth

i know the man... ive spoken to him personally, he knows of my setup, but not for the 4wd system

its pretty simple, i have fitted R33 suspension into the front of S series silvias and even contemplated running the gtr subframe and so forth in the drift car but after mocking it up it lacked adequate steering lock... so binned the idea.

Where are you located? i would be happy to do the job. i even have the towers ready to go ;)

do a search for "full race". they built the r14 in the US

http://www.full-race.com/r14/

there you go

yeah i think thats the same car im talking about, its the silver colored S14 aye?

edit: yep its the same car im talking about

http://www.full-race.com/r14/

_H0J9505.jpg

Edited by STR8E180

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...