Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

When my turbo died a month or two back I managed to lose 2 of the copper washers from the coolant line banjo bolt to the turbo. I checked out the usual autoparts stores, even tried a workshop who suggested that it was an 'odd size' and you couldn't get it. So he gave me some compressed paper washers that were a better fit and said to use a little gasket sealer to stop it bunching up when tightening the lines back on.

Well now that coolant line seems to be leaking. Where do I find proper 17mm copper washers for this bolt? The ones at auto parts stores were all too loose or too small for the bolt, i.e., 15mm or 20mm+.

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220162-proper-17mm-copper-washers/
Share on other sites

I had trouble finding them too. Went to bunnings, got f**ked off because there were no staff to assist. I found a mixed pack of washers, that had ONE the right size. Rather than buy 4 packs, i opened up them all, and pinched that copper washer, and put them in the same pack.

So maybe you need to look for those mixed packs - and check someone hasnt pinched the 17mm copper washer!

Edited by Trav33

Pirtek will have heaps, so many you wont know what to do, I needed to get some when I re-did the hoses on my Soarer's power steering system, replaced the 2 linked 17's with 2 single 17mm washers, never looked back.

B.

I had trouble finding them too. Went to bunnings, got f**ked off because there were no staff to assist. I found a mixed pack of washers, that had ONE the right size. Rather than buy 4 packs, i opened up them all, and pinched that copper washer, and put them in the same pack.

So maybe you need to look for those mixed packs - and check someone hasnt pinched the 17mm copper washer!

Bahhahah your a true gentleman.

I only needed one washer and like you it was only in that mixed pack for 5 bucks!!!

Opened the pack, pocketed the washer, went and spent that 5 bucks at the hotdog and drink stand out the front.

I figure ive given bunnings enough money over time...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that's a fair assumption. I'm presuming they call them solid lifters as they have no moving parts like hydro lifters. 
    • I believe you're confusing WMI with water injection. Looking at that graph, the 93aki+WMI car is making more power than C16 race gas. Boost juice, which is what I also run, is Snow Performances 50/50 premix. 
    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
×
×
  • Create New...