Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It'll be interesting to see how it goes with more ignition pumping in there. Hopefully improve that midrange.

The .78 is an interesting housing, it should have the best of both worlds (good respective points of the .68 and 82)

Twins would be on nearly 1000rpm sooner (5k rpm/200rwkw is fairly laggy in my book for a GT35/700hp setup) so it gives room for lots more tuning and playing once you get stuck into it

ps. my t04z rated at 800hp is making 200rwkw at 4250rpm and has the potential to make at least a extra 100-150rwhp more than the twins your talking about...

250rpm for over 100hp, ill take that thank you :D

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm with Nismoid here. With cops and EPA ruining it for all of us, I figured that you would forsake low mounts for a single high mount once you wanted more than 380rwkw. Whats wrong with running -5's for 350-380rwkw, are you telling me they are not responsive.

For the record I've had HKS 2530's and a T88H-38GK in the same car and I prefer the single over the twins, but I only swapped cause I wanted more power.

In the current enviroment, I really dont think I will ever go a single again, which is a shame. I have a 34 now which will more than likely see -5's, fingers crossed with Ben's 2.9 kit

Kemp, if these arent issues where you live, then ignore my post, its not relevant to your situation, enjoy your GTR, 300rwkw is fast no matter what you use.

Sorry, what do you base that on? It's making 16psi at 4k, what twins make 16psi at 3k and are able to support 700ps? (~550+rwhp). Forget what "power" it's making, thats obviously just a product of the tune.

I'm running HKS 2835 48T's which are rated at 760ps (not much more than a .86 GT35) and they don't see full boost (1.7bar) until 5800 in 4th...

read on :rofl:

dont worry brockas he loves comparing apples to ballbearings to support his twins fantasy :P

Nothing to offer again ey? Getting a bit repetative these posts with no info other than nothing you can substaciate :)

I had a 600hp GT30 in the .82, and given it was 100hp less, it certainly wasnt 5000rpm before 200rwkw.

Nearly 600-800rpm earlier, and thats on a stock head RB25 on what most would call an inferiour setup being i didnt have the wonderful

cams/cam gears

split pulse housing/manifold (and remember its a smaller housing also)

RB26 plenum/throttle bodies

So moving along...

Here is Snowmans graph using -5's Click ME!!!

Now, obviously that providing the conversion is right ...

Snowies numbers appear to be:

3500 rpm: 125kW (100km/h)

4000rpm: 180kW (114km/h)

4500rpm: 255kW (128km/h)

On the assumption that 114km/h in 4th equals 4000rpm.

Im no gearing/rpm expert so perhaps someone else might be able to confirm more closely.

Either way, the -5s and GT35 are similar in what they should be delivering, i even think a set of -5's is bigger?

You can see from the graph on the first page there is not the midrange ramp one would expect, boost control you can see is a bit wavy could be due to the igniton issues etc.

Not saying its a bad result at all. There is just room for some improvement, (based on the graph linked above, without a doubt once the setups initial issues are sorted and then follow up results posted that should be indeed better

Cheers.

ps. my t04z rated at 800hp is making 200rwkw at 4250rpm and has the potential to make at least a extra 100-150rwhp more than the twins your talking about...

250rpm for over 100hp, ill take that thank you :P

So basically you backed up what i put in my post on the first page anyhow about it being not as responsive as you'd think

Top work there, its all very compareable and you know it :rofl:

hmm why does it seem that SAU is turning into the likes of NS.com these days....

dont worry im not hear to barrage your thread lol.

considering igniton problems 316kw is far from ordinary, interested to see what it comes out with once any/all the bugs are ironed out.

GL.

hmm why does it seem that SAU is turning into the likes of NS.com these days....

GL.

So true!

No need to bash the guy for doing something a little different now... :D

And I'm a big fan of twins on GTR's with the way current EPA/regs are.

But, the 3540 should go really well when its sorted.

These turbos seem to have really good response for the power they make.

Good luck with it.

Edited by RPMGTR
yeah its a perfect daily cant believe how responsive it is

feels alot more responsive then when it was all standard

ill post up the new dyno results once i have upgraded the ignition system, im just abit broke to do it right now

nice im sure he ignition system mods will help with the troublesome top end. Ive tested a few of the superspark RB26 coils and had no issues (nice budget price) if your looking for something differrent.

i actually just finished dynoing the K5.... im suprised how much more mid range it has compared to the smaller GT35R.. kinda defy's logic. Results were made on our new dynapck which reads within a poofteenth of all the dyno dynamics round here and and about 10-15 less than the dts ones..

for refferrence as i cbf posting the rpm vs kw and NM 120kmh is equivalent to 4700rpm

post-34927-1211472481_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1211472508_thumb.jpg

So basically you backed up what i put in my post on the first page anyhow about it being not as responsive as you'd think

Sorry obviously I didn't ask the question clearly enough in my previous post.

Which twins make 16psi at 3000rpm and support 700ps?

I had a 600hp GT30 in the .82, and given it was 100hp less, it certainly wasnt 5000rpm before 200rwkw.

I bet if your ignition was breaking down and it was a basic tune it would be a different story.

Why on earth are you looking at the power level, and trying to compare turbos?

I've seen the same turbo act completely differently on 2 seperate cars simply due to the tune, and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Telling him a pair of twins would instantly make this car more responsive is delusional at best...

No idea Brockaz - maybe you should go and read the posts?

I never made mention about any 700ps/hp/whatever turbos making 16psi @ 3000rpm. Maybe you could go and find the post that clearly states that, because i've read the whole thread 4 times now and still cant find any reference

Im looking at delivery/response and power all together actually. Again, please go back and follow this order.

Read, comprehend, post

I think its a good result, owner is happy too... owner knows there is more work, and im sure like everyone else, im awaiting the end results of it all.

Hell i'd prefer a single on my car for a number of reasons if the local constabulary would let me get away with it.

Cheers.

to be honest. i dont think that anyone has a well setup gt30 gt35 framed rb26 on here...

but considering the bigger garrett singles are only a bees dick away in terms of response then i can only see it being a matter of time before someone gets it right and you see how responsive they can be

ps. we are lucky over here in wa, dont have epa... saying all this i love low mounts, i just think a well set up high mount, or twins can always be better

Why does / would the EPA frown on a high mount turbo setup. It's doing the exact same thing at twin low mounts only better and more efficiently. Surely emissions don't change based only on 1 or 2 turbos and where they are located.

Long story, but lowmounts you cant see, and are the same size. Therefore you dont know they are differnt.

EPA ruling (here in vic) states you cant change any part that alters emissions for the most part... so ecu, injectors, turbos, cams, AFM etc etc

More to it but dont wanna hijack the thread

to be honest. i dont think that anyone has a well setup gt30 gt35 framed rb26 on here...

but considering the bigger garrett singles are only a bees dick away in terms of response then i can only see it being a matter of time before someone gets it right and you see how responsive they can be

ps. we are lucky over here in wa, dont have epa... saying all this i love low mounts, i just think a well set up high mount, or twins can always be better

not looking very hard then :bunny:

gt35 with 0.82 and everything you can think off to make it work

dyno5.jpg

edit: sorry should add thats running 1.6bar, and massive wheel spin on the dyno to the point the tyres starting delaminating (http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...coupe/dyno3.jpg) so we had to stop (injectors at 100% duty cycle also). Tyres and lack of fuel meant we only moved the cams once before calling it quits.

Edited by DCIEVE

Yep using a 3582 as it came out of the box.

Should add the curve is a little misleading as the car would rev quickly to 6500 then hold there for a few seconds while the rollers caught up (with chunks of rubber spraying the wall), before revving out the last 1500rpm.

Edited by DCIEVE
No idea Brockaz - maybe you should go and read the posts?

I never made mention about any 700ps/hp/whatever turbos making 16psi @ 3000rpm.

Twins would be on nearly 1000rpm sooner (5k rpm/200rwkw is fairly laggy in my book for a GT35/700hp setup)

Apologies, must be a misunderstanding.

He obviously wants a 700hp rated turbo setup for future mods/tune, so why bother mentioning that 550-600hp rated turbos would be on sooner? Captain obvious in fine form...

I'll keep my opinion that equivalently sized twins/singe will produce the same boost at the same RPM, and you can keep measuring response by how much power it makes at a certain RPM :)

Edited by Brockaz

i personally dont care if twins would be more responsive

the car is my daily so i wasnt to fuss with trying to get max responsive i went with the single turbo conversion because it was alot more eazy and it also makes it more eazy to work on

im happy with the response it makes as it is so i wont be changing it

if i was building a full track car i would of went with twin GT2560 with custom steam pipe manifolds with twin TiAL 38mm gates i also would of spent more money on the cylinder head with a bigger lift cam and port work but like i said the car is my daily so i didnt see any point spending bucket loads of cash

not looking very hard then :P

gt35 with 0.82 and everything you can think off to make it work

dyno5.jpg

edit: sorry should add thats running 1.6bar, and massive wheel spin on the dyno to the point the tyres starting delaminating (http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...coupe/dyno3.jpg) so we had to stop (injectors at 100% duty cycle also). Tyres and lack of fuel meant we only moved the cams once before calling it quits.

haha sorry nick, i was going to mention yours but i dont know the diff ratios compared to road speed of r31 so its hard to compare with r32 gtr's :(

give me some rpm to road speed ratios

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...