What Would You Do With A Stock R34 Nur

[rtune]

I've been reading stuff till my eyes bleed.

Say I had a r34 nur that came stock, down to the exhaust and airbox.. and say I wanted

to keep it for a year or three as a weekender - perhaps some open lapping days? then

(this is the important part) sell without drama if I get the shits with it. I'd keep it covered,

detailed not drive in the rain, blah blah.

What would you recommend?

So far my plan:

* leave the stock air box but put in a hi-flow filter - can you feed cold air to a pod? i doubt it.

* a well designed 3" turbo back exhaust with hi-flow cat

* a power FC and tune it but be conservative with boost - roller bearing turbos, not ceramic, on this car..

* put some money into the ICE

I'm hoping you guys agree this, at least, is ok..

My question is then ..

anything else? intercooler attention? hks cam? port and polish?

how about the suspension? I am jealous of the m-spec nur suspension.

R34 is hard in a bad way for street use. On half of sydney roads

it is not pleasant or fast, and probably shakes the interior to bits too. Thats just

my opinion. But I like the evo suspension, yet R34 is harder!

no rice on this car.. I go into autostyle and see these monster skylines

languishing there and realize what was a monster for a year can be an unsaleable

frankenstein later. I want to be able to return it to total stock at the end without

drama, and with honesty to the next buyer. No over-spec stress on the

engine. Externally I want it to look exactly as it came from the factory, as it does now.

Yeah so I could leave it EXACTLY stock.. but I don't think the nur has proven

its status as collectible yet, in the way an old ferrari is.. maybe that will change.

sorry for the long post for what is a simple advice question really..

What should I do here?

I'll take a better picture soon!

Edited May 23, 2008 by r34nur

[RusH_]

lolz, that pic has to be a fake

[RusH_]

oh, and of course u can feed a pod cold air... encase it in a box with the stock snorkle attached, furthermore add a second feed from the front bar or wherever else is convenient

[rtune]

lolz, that pic has to be a fake

Why? I took the dealer shot, and cropped it then I put a blur on the background

using gimp, took me like 5 minutes because I like pictures done that way!

If you think I'm just making shit up thats ok, I don't believe the crap I read

on the internetz either. But if you want to call http://www.abctyrepower.com.au

and ask them what skyline they inspected this morning, be my guest ..

Yeah I had seen a fabrication around a pod before, but then isn't that reinventing

an airbox? Are pods under the hood mainly for the induction noise and the look?

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Utilise as much out of the N1 turbos - boost controller and dyno tune APexi PFC

full HKS exhaust

twin Apexi air pods (leave factory air feed to direct air to pods) or upgrade panel filter

upgrade extra heavy duty single clutch

keep the factory intercooler, unless running a lot of boost.

Nur's have N1 engines = race spec engines (its more refined then the other RB26's)

Nur's are based on V-Spec II's so your suspension will be very firm

bronze Nismo LMGT 4 Rims

Nismo body kit.

[rtune]

Utilise as much out of the N1 turbos - boost controller and dyno tune APexi PFC

full HKS exhaust

twin Apexi air pods (leave factory air feed to direct air to pods) or upgrade panel filter

upgrade extra heavy duty single clutch

keep the factory intercooler, unless running a lot of boost.

Nur's have N1 engines = race spec engines (its more refined then the other RB26's)

Nur's are based on V-Spec II's so your suspension will be very firm

bronze Nismo LMGT 4 Rims

Nismo body kit.

thanks,

Is a brand exhaust going to give better results than a fabricated one?

& what is a good heavy-duty clutch? I've tried an exedy single plate and it had pretty

progressive bite (which I prefer) but the pedal was too heavy ..

nismo offers the coppermix (420 ps).. i guess I'll search for

feedback on it..

so, stock injectors and fuel rail / fuel pump are good enough for power fc and

free-flowing engine?

[Yawn]

You may have to change injectors, depending on tuner and application. Stock fuel pump is pretty reliable up to a certain limit of course. With a boost controller, power fc, good tyres, exhaust and some suspension mods, you will have a very fun car that handles well, is reliable, and pushes out around 300rwkw.

A high-flow panel filter will definitely do as good a job as pod filters. I guess the main reason people go for jap-branded exhausts is because of the build quality and design, which affects the sound. Having said that, i highly doubt you will get much gain from a jap-branded one compared to a custom fabricated one. Unless the jap-branded one is titanium that is.

If you have the cash to splurge, and im assuming you do, owning a Nur and all, then get an Exedy Carbon twinplate (or single) or something along those lines. You will get a very tough clutch, which has a progressive feel to it as well, except the pedal is much lighter than a run of the mill twinplate.

And that is what id do to a Nur without modifying it too much.

Edited May 23, 2008 by Yawn

[rtune]

If you have the cash to splurge, and im assuming you do, owning a Nur and all, then get an Exedy Carbon twinplate (or single) or something along those lines. You will get a very tough clutch, which has a progressive feel to it as well, except the pedal is much lighter than a run of the mill twinplate.

And that is what id do to a Nur without modifying it too much.

thanks!

and hey money is a factor: I think having this car is going to cost me less than a

previously modified R34, or a regular R34 that I'd start changing. Anyone looked at new car

prices recently? this thing costs less than a new bmw 135i, a car that will depreciate $40k

in 3 years.. and less than an Evo X, that would depreciate even faster..

Maybe I'm wrong but do you think in 2010, when nissan GTRs at ($150k+ a pop) are a relatively

common sight, do you think a mint R34 nur could be picked up for less than $40k? hmm, I doubt

it somehow. But who knows. If petrol prices hit $3 a liter maybe everything will change.

[R34NRG]

i would go at LEAST 3.5 or even 4" exhaust. 3" feels a lil small for a fully maxed out NUR.

power FC with a tune

lots of boost

some newer wheels

i guess that would be the basics.

personally id go with a few new gadets

NISMO MFD ver II for the increased boost

a complete kit (nurs dont have side skirts or rear barrs that are at the same level as the front.

ect ect

[DarkChild]

This thread is very familiar.... *laughs*

I've got a white V-Spec II Nur too...

[R338OY]

(00)SKYLINE(00) gave you the best response so far.

You won't need too much to make the Nur into a quick car. Just make sure you use a good boost controller, a PFC and reputable tuner. You'd be surprised the difference to power with 1.2+ BAR of boost.

Get a Jap exhaust, or even a locally made one such as CES. There wouldn't be a major difference in performance between them (most have very similar designs). The big difference is quality. Can't go wrong with HKS turbo-back IMO. Custom designs are a waste -the mass produced designs, as seen on Nengun for eg., have been tested again and again. A custom one won't make much difference other than to the price. It's only with 400kw+ where you'll be thinking off-the-shelf exhausts aren't up to scratch, but by that stage your car will need many a mod to reach that power.

Edited May 24, 2008 by R338OY

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

thanks,

Is a brand exhaust going to give better results than a fabricated one?

& what is a good heavy-duty clutch? I've tried an exedy single plate and it had pretty

progressive bite (which I prefer) but the pedal was too heavy ..

nismo offers the coppermix (420 ps).. i guess I'll search for

feedback on it..

so, stock injectors and fuel rail / fuel pump are good enough for power fc and

free-flowing engine?

Doesnt really matter what type of brand exhaust. I have only driven a Nur with a HKS Titanium exhaust on thats all + I like HKS, as long as you get atleast 3" if not 3.5" / 4" wont hurt as what R34NRG said.

I just preffer a extra heavy duty single plate, bit more drivable because I had a HKS Twin plate before, it's either IN or OUT. Twin, triple, quad plates just be come a nightmare for every day driving LOL!

But all depends are you using it soley for track purposes or you want it to be driven everyday but have bit of bite, will depend on you clutch set up.

The one I drove was 303kWs at All Wheels. The stock single plate was buring out, not gripping as much so needed up grading but everything else was holding up.

When I drove a Nur, injectors, fuel railing and fuel pump, were fine for the APexi PFC.

Nur's came stock at about 1.1 Bar (15.95 Psi), which is quite abit for stock. Again depends how much boost you wanna run. More Boost = Need More Fuel = Upgrade Fueling System (If stock fuel system cannot cope anymore).

I can't exactly say how much boost unit you need to upgrade the fuel system that why you will probley need to dyno tune it to map out everything and see where needs improvement I guess.

This thread is very familiar.... *laughs*

I've got a white V-Spec II Nur too...

DarkChlid is probley the best to speak to about the Nur as he has got one!

(00)SKYLINE(00) gave you the best response so far.

You won't need too much to make the Nur into a quick car. Just make sure you use a good boost controller, a PFC and reputable tuner. You'd be surprised the difference to power with 1.2+ BAR of boost.

Get a Jap exhaust, or even a locally made one such as CES. There wouldn't be a major difference in performance between them (most have very similar designs). The big difference is quality. Can't go wrong with HKS turbo-back IMO. Custom designs are a waste -the mass produced designs, as seen on Nengun for eg., have been tested again and again. A custom one won't make much difference other than to the price. It's only with 400kw+ where you'll be thinking off-the-shelf exhausts aren't up to scratch, but by that stage your car will need many a mod to reach that power.

Guess it helps when having the chance just to drive one and which was great experiance.

[DarkChild]

So far my plans were not to go too crazy on the mods too. I like things simple and clean.

This is my setup...

Pictures can be found on my blog entry 'No stopping after that' from The Clipping Point.

I've got a Trust PE TI-R Titanium cat back exhaust which is 80mm (about 3.15inches). It comes with a silencer which you fit in the mouth of the exhaust and you can remove it if you want to.

With the silencer on, it's pretty quiet. With the silencer off, it's still pretty quiet (in my opinion as I've heard louder ones) on idle but roars when you gun it. The only problem with the silencer removed the cabin boom can get pretty annoying when cruising.

However, I have the Trust/GReddy Extention Front Pipe（With Ex. Temp Sensor Attachment)and a de-cat as well so maybe this made it louder.

The Extention Pipes are made as a one piece from the turbo's to the downpipe to the cat. The Extention pipes are 70mm(2.75inches) to 80mm(3.15inches). The de-cat is 80mm(3.15inches) too. Both these items are stainless steel.

If I were to suggest an exhaust, it would definitely be from Mine's. If you have the funds, go for a complete exhaust system from them.

The Mine's Silence-VX Pro Titan II Titanium catback exhaust. Quiet but sounds absolutely amazing when you put pedal to the metal.

The Mine's Front Pipe Pro. This is the stainless steel one. Apparently the Mine's Front Pipe Pro Titan (The titanium one) tends to crack if the temperature gets too hot so I suggest the stainless steel one.

The Mine's Super Outlet Pro II which are turbo elbows. These are stainless steel items as well.

Mine's also suggest you keep the cat or fit a sport cat if you want to keep the decibels and noise down.

HKS 2.8L step2＋Mine's SILENCE VX PRO TITANⅡ　＋Mine's front pipe pro　exhaust　sound.

Nick's Mine's Stage 2 BNR34 V-Spec II

Nick's Mine's Stage 2 BNR34 V-Spec II Fuji Speedway Flyby

Nick is the Director of Kanzen Performance which is an official distributor for Mine's.

Edited May 24, 2008 by DarkChild

[DarkChild]

As for the intake, Mine's is running a 600ps car and still have the stock intake box so I don't see any problems with you wanting to keep the stock intake box. Just replace the filter with a high performance one.

I guess you can custom a cold air to the box but don't they already come with some sort of a snorkel to the box? You can buy a better looking snorkel (eg. Nismo/Mine's/ GruppeM) carbon or kevlar. If you have the money to blow, go for the Gruppe M one as they look awesome.

Nismo Air Cleaner Duct

Mine's Air Filter Duct

GruppeM

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

DarkChild those youtube clips are nice!

The Nick's R34 sounds close to Ferrari / F1 at high revs.

Which air intake worked best out of the 3? Im sure they all do the same thing. It just a matter of maximising the air flow I guess.

[DarkChild]

You will definitely want to fine tune your fuel and ignition to get the most out of the car.

Many Japanese tuners tell me the stock ECU is still the best ECU if you have that option. If you can get a Japanese tuner to tune your stock ECU to your new set up, that would be the best.

However, if that is not an option for you, then most people go for the Power FC or the FCon.

Depending on what your set up will be, the stock AFM's will only flow about 400-450hp so if you want more than that, you'll either have to swap for bigger AFM's (eg. Nismo, Z32, RB25, Mine's...) or you could go MAP.

In that case, Power FC D-Jetro and the FCon do map as well. There is a very long discussion between which is better (MAF or MAP). I suggest you don't be lazy and do your research on that one.

The stock intercooler should be sufficient for the power you're looking for (up to 600hp) but if you have money to spend, go for it. I would recommend you get your oil parts sorted out too as RB's are known to have problems in this area. Maybe a baffle plate to keep oil in place during the higher G's on your track days. There are a lot of mixed views on the N1 oil pump but if you have money to blow, go for an after market one. If not, at least get a Harmonic Damper to reduce torsional crankshaft vibrations and to eliminate harmful crankshaft harmonics which are one of the causes of the oil pump failing. I would recommend an oil cooler too if you are planning to do some track days.

The stock N1 turbines are capable of boost up to 1.4/1.5 bar so no problems there. You probably need a boost controller too speaking of which. There are plenty of brands available.

Depending on how much HP you are targeting, you might need to sort out your fueling (eg. Injectors, Fuel Pump, Fuel Rail...). The stock injectors are 444cc and a rough rule of the thumb is 1cc to 1hp so technically you could get 444hp from your stock injectors. I wouldn't recommend that though as you would be maxing out your injectors and you always want to leave it running on 80% to have a safe margin.

As for the clutch,

I am using an ORC Twin Carbon Clutch with a Nismo Big Operating Cylinder. The Nismo Big Operating Cylinder helped lighten the pedal feel making it much lighter than stock. The ORC Twin Carbon Clutch does not have the "on or off" feel that most people dread. The only drawback of going twin plate is maybe the noise when the clutch pedal is depressed (makes a ringing sound) and maybe the cost of replacing the plates.

Most clutches will come with a flywheel too which brings me to a point I think you should know. BNR34's come with a dual mass flywheel and changing to an aftermarket one will cause it to make a chattering sound. This is normal and happens to 50% or more of the GT-R's.

If I were to suggest what clutch, I would recommend the ORC I'm using or go for ATS carbon clutch. ATS carbon clutches are know to be very light and gives you the same feeling as a stock clutch. Nismo Super Coppermix have good reviews on them too.

Suspension wise,

Well, I'm using Nismo S-Tune's and in my opinion they are the best compromise between comfort and performance. They are firm enough for light track and soft enough for street. They offer some adjusting to the stiffness of the dampers and if you go for the HA S-Tune version, you can adjust the height too. I don't have any experience with the other suspensions so I really can't tell you much. If you really want to tighten up the handling, go for the full Link and Bushing parts as well as strut bars, anti-roll bars and the lot (available from a couple of brands). They will make the car feel tighter and better.

Porting and Polishing is very serious head work for serious power cars. Porting and polishing varies with every state of tune and if not done properly, it will make your car slower in fact. Bigger doesn't mean better here as there are calculations and formulas when it comes to this dark art. I would suggest getting some drop in cams instead if you want to so something to your head. 9.15 lift cams are drop in and anything higher than that would require some head work. Many brands carry these specs so pick your poison. Be sure you check the valve clearance too as many garages don't do that just because they are drop ins. It'll take more work (shim type engine, 24 of them) but it's worth it.

Edited May 24, 2008 by DarkChild

[rtune]

Suspension wise,

Well, I'm using Nismo S-Tune's and in my opinion they are the best compromise between comfort and performance. They are firm enough for light track and soft enough for street. They offer some adjusting to the stiffness of the dampers and if you go for the HA S-Tune version, you can adjust the height too.

How is s-tune vs stock v-spec II? More compliant, or even less so?

& and at some stage it would be awesome if you could check what your paint code is? Mine appears to be OH1-G but I can't find that anywhere - even in the japanese paint code document. It could also be QH1-G, but it is hard to read that first letter. if the paint code isn't on the list should I be concerned!!

edit: never mind it is QM1, which is on the japanese paint code doc as .. white .. phew

Edited May 24, 2008 by r34nur

[DarkChild]

Just so everyone is clear, the N1 engine is not much stronger than the stock RB26 so it isn't advisable to go very much above the limits of a stock RB26.

It was designed for longer durability in the Group A racing as the stock RB26 proved to require too much maintenance in those conditions.

It will take more punishment but it's not bullet proof like everyone has in mind.

(00)SKYLINE(00),

All of them are pretty much the same but all different in cost. GruppeM is the most expensive one but they are definitely quality. Each genuine GruppeM RAM AIR SYSTEM kit has a serial number plate.

You can't get any better than that.

r34nur,

I can't really compare it to the stock V-Spec II suspension as I fitted the S-Tune suspension very early. As far as I know, the S-Tune has 20% stiffer springs but the damping stiffness can be adjusted.

My paint code is QM1 as well.

I've got a list of paint codes on my blog here.

[DarkChild]

Here's another clip of the HKS 2.8L step2＋Mine's SILENCE VX PRO TITANⅡ　＋Mine's front pipe pro　exhaust. This one is in the car, in a tunnel.

Seriously, if you have the funds, get a full Mine's exhaust. The Trust one that I have is not bad and is cheap for a Titanium one but the Mine's one just sounds so so good.

p.s. Forgot to mention, the GruppM intake actually comes with a K&N filter. Instead of the drop in filters, they have an open pod filter but in a box surrounding. Check out the website in the link I posted with the picture above to find out more.

Edited May 24, 2008 by DarkChild

[1C3B3RG]

If i had this car i would cry sweet tears of joy everyday! I would not molest it, leave stock. Buy yourself a 32 or 33 GTR and butcher that. Race the crap out of it and then no worries. Keep the NUR clean, the way GOD intended.