Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im in very sad state of mind after waiting almost a year to get my car on the road iv got a major problem

ok here i go, i had an r33gtr which had a forged motor with a n1 pump, i put the motor into a r32 gtr

all way going well until a couple of hours ago, after my mate finished adding the final touchs to the pfc we took it for a drive got a bout 300m down the road, and the car stalled, tryed to roll start (kick the clutch while moving) all 4 wheels locked up.

at this stage i was very worried, it felt as if the motor seized mind you the motor is only bout 2800km old built by race pace...

so we pulled of the cam and cam gear covers of to see if anything broke,

but nothing but i did notice there wasnt allot of oil on the cams and underneath the cam covers was dry as a bone, so something to do with oil pressure,

i do have any aftermarket apexi oil pressure gauge that wasnt showings any sign of low oil pressure. and didnt here any knocking or breaking sound

the motor was running perfectly in the r33gtr which i use to own, now is a wreck coz it got hit but no where near the motor, i did get a breaker bar and crack the motor every few week to keep everything lubricated, only thing iv changed on the motor since it was in the 33 are hks dump pipes, bigger exhaust, changed plugs,oil and filter

oh and btw my mate is a mechanic and know what his doing when it come to rb26s and will try and get it stripped down tomorrow but i need to know if this has happen to anyone before im very worried and need to sleep at night

some please help thanks guys

mods to the motor are

Forged Pistons (Arias)

-Metal head gasket

-N1 Oil pump

-ACL bearings

-New crank

-Head Work (just general tidy up)

-New belts

-Engine Blue Printed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220607-rb26-major-problems/
Share on other sites

hey guys

im in very sad state of mind after waiting almost a year to get my car on the road iv got a major problem

ok here i go, i had an r33gtr which had a forged motor with a n1 pump, i put the motor into a r32 gtr

all way going well until a couple of hours ago, after my mate finished adding the final touchs to the pfc we took it for a drive got a bout 300m down the road, and the car stalled, tryed to roll start (kick the clutch while moving) all 4 wheels locked up.

at this stage i was very worried, it felt as if the motor seized mind you the motor is only bout 2800km old built by race pace...

so we pulled of the cam and cam gear covers of to see if anything broke,

but nothing but i did notice there wasnt allot of oil on the cams and underneath the cam covers was dry as a bone, so something to do with oil pressure,

i do have any aftermarket apexi oil pressure gauge that wasnt showings any sign of low oil pressure. and didnt here any knocking or breaking sound

the motor was running perfectly in the r33gtr which i use to own, now is a wreck coz it got hit but no where near the motor, i did get a breaker bar and crack the motor every few week to keep everything lubricated, only thing iv changed on the motor since it was in the 33 are hks dump pipes, bigger exhaust, changed plugs,oil and filter

oh and btw my mate is a mechanic and know what his doing when it come to rb26s and will try and get it stripped down tomorrow but i need to know if this has happen to anyone before im very worried and need to sleep at night

some please help thanks guys

mods to the motor are

Forged Pistons (Arias)

-Metal head gasket

-N1 Oil pump

-ACL bearings

-New crank

-Head Work (just general tidy up)

-New belts

-Engine Blue Printed

Does it turn over on the starter with the plugs pulled?

Does your fuel pump prime on ignition?

You have spent a sizable chunk of cash on your motor, why not take it to someone who knows what they are doing before pulling the motor? :P

no the motor dosnt turn over at all, not even with a breaker bar, and my mate is a mechanic that knows what his doing, not his fault engine was running mint for bout 10mins then all of a sudden seized up and locked up all four wheels,

engine is getting pulled down today to find the problem

All injector seals in? drain the oil?

I have no honest idea but I read the other day a person having the same problem with injectors which are not installed correctly and was flooding the engine?

Hydrollic lock i think its called

Edited by DECIM8

im over this car, i was so close to stripping it down and selling it as parts,

but my mate didnt have time to pull it apart today but will early next week, but looks like i will be folkong out for another build,

but the funny thing is we never hear nothing break, and also no metal shavings when we drained the oil

it might seem like a dum question, but when you started for the first time did you take the oil cap off and make sure the cam lobe you can see from there had oil on it????

was the correct seal used on the N1 oil pump?

cause if a breaker bar wont turn it over you have either got A: a siezed motor B: a dropped valve or C: dropped a big end cap?

but from what you described above i wouldnt be surprised if the main bearings have spun and it the cradle pressure clamping the crankshaft.

good luck with that one bro, i feel for ya...

atleast when mine stopped going you new what was wrong with it cause number 3 piston was hanging outta the block.

for it to sieze solid and not make noises, it will of spun a main bearing. the cambelt will snap at the wieght of the whole car. if its just the head siezing, its a pretty damn strong belt!!

so no oil in the head.. all of a sudden. somethings blocked. does it have an oil cooler with remote filter?

the belt isnt snaped, i dont have an oil cooler or remote filter but i did notice there was thick gunk underneath the cam covers but not really any oil there, from what i can gather i think the oil pick up is blocked but wont no until we pull it apart,

if the main bearing is spun will it of damaged my crank? or will i just be able to replace the bearings?

anyway thx for this guys im pretty stressed out atm

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...