Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well this is the 1st I've heard about the A050's (just looked them up and they sure look weird!)

advan_a050_1.jpg

I'm not sure where you are located but you'll need to contact your local Advan Motorsports Tyre centre - generally there is only 1 per state. (If you want to know where to buy each R comp in each state grab a copy of the latest Tarmac Magazine - it has all the tyres and state suppliers listed)

For example in Vic for Advan tyres it is Traction Tyres - http://www.tractiontyres.com.au/

But I'm not aware of these being here yet so I guess there'd be bugger all feedback on them. But you can be sure when they do come they will be $$$$$$$$$ - so still I'd suggest the RE55's will be the ones to choose.

For whatever reason the RE55's appear to be much cheaper on pricing than almost all the others - in the larger sizes anyway. Plus they have a reputation as being the quicker tyre.

But maybe Yokohama has made a gain....

As an aside I was watching the utes from Wanneroo on the weekend just gone (Go the yocal Grant Johnson) and amongst the PR blather from one or other of the Jane family was the claim that the new 18" tyre/rubber combination was, relative to the 17's worth over half a second a lap. Any comments?

For whatever reason the RE55's appear to be much cheaper on pricing than almost all the others - in the larger sizes anyway. Plus they have a reputation as being the quicker tyre.

But maybe Yokohama has made a gain....

As an aside I was watching the utes from Wanneroo on the weekend just gone (Go the yocal Grant Johnson) and amongst the PR blather from one or other of the Jane family was the claim that the new 18" tyre/rubber combination was, relative to the 17's worth over half a second a lap. Any comments?

After they changed almost all of the the suspension settings to suite the 18's ie; they didn't just bolt them on and go 0.5 seconds faster.

Cheers

Gary

The RE55 would get my vote as well.

I have used both RE55 and AO48's (so not a true comparison) but i will never use the advans again. The advan is more expensive, seems to suffer more with heat cycling and just doesn't seem to perform if the pressures aren't spot on. I also found that they didn't feel too nice under braking as they got older. They just didn't inspire confidence.

Where as the RE55's i used on the weekend are half worn on the front (3 tracks days old), well past the indicators on the rear (they have done 6 track days in the last year) and i generally just make sure they are around 34-36psi hot after the first session and don't touch them for the rest of the day. They are pretty noisey, not that it matters.

I pulled another second out of my wakefield pb on the weekend, so i would say they are performing well enough for a weekend hack like me. And as they are still cheaper than most other semi's in 235/45-17 it's a good sweetner.

  • 10 months later...

digging up an old thread but.....

This weekend some of the Pro class were using the soft compound of this tyre and getting some good results, it is really only a sprint/hill climb tyre but speaking with the gordon levin team they are getting the medium compound stock in around a months time.

Being a lot newer desigin the ADVAN A050 it will be interesting to see what peoples thoughts are once the medium compound becomes available,

matt

  • 7 months later...
digging up an old thread but.....

This weekend some of the Pro class were using the soft compound of this tyre and getting some good results, it is really only a sprint/hill climb tyre but speaking with the gordon levin team they are getting the medium compound stock in around a months time.

Being a lot newer desigin the ADVAN A050 it will be interesting to see what peoples thoughts are once the medium compound becomes available,

matt

Digging it up once again.

Anyone got any more feedback!?!?

I have just ordered a set of mediums for the Evo, looking forward to comparing them

to the times i was getting on the SR2 RE55s.

A few Vic guys are running them and I've heard nothing but good things from them.

I've also spoken with an STi driver, and while he really liked the tyre they had quite a fast wear rate on his and a customers car. The owners of the lighter R32 and S13's I'm referring to above have found good wear though, so I'm not sure. I'll probably be trying out a set after my RE's are gone.

  • 5 months later...
Dig this up again....

I'm hearing very positive things.

Anyone with direct comparable experience to RE55's that can comment?

If you're from sydney. Go to superlap. It will answer your question.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...