Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey denis,

sorryto hear that man.

i thought of Toshi, but the way he coommunicates and answers my queries doesnt make him sound like a good tuner, i wouldnt go to him.

although he is cheap, id rather pay a little more to get the job done right.

Most likely some of your posts will be deleted,

MODS: Could we not make a nsw section which gives us the ability to post a vote app so we can rate the service we got, no reason *unless via pm* and is not un reasonable. No doubt you can record peoples votes and if they vote 0/100 - 50 times for say Bob garage then they have to supply 50 records to claim they actually went 50 times. This seems like a fair idea which cannot land the owner in trouble as there can be no comments.

Just an idea

FYI road tunes are crap! Not to say toshi isnt doing a good job but you have no idea on the power curve, for example if you want it high accleration how are you going to tune that without launching 50 times. dyno helps alot more.

Trust me, been there done that!

Edited by DECIM8

Toshi is great and I reckon road tunes are the way to go .. real life driving conditions, not just spinning your wheels under simulated load on a friggin dyno. We've just had some bad luck and ... preparation I guess (should've checked the ign. timing before we started)

What's the point of a power curve created on dyno if the car doesn't behave like that on the road?? What about response when you're breaking/speeding up ? Can't do that on dyno ... Anyway, don't wanna turn this into dyno vs road tune debate. Just wish we'd prepared a bit better that's all.

Mind you, none of this is Toshi's fault .. any tuner would assume that you haven't screwed around with the ign. timing to start with. All my troubles started when i took the car for a timing belt change and gave it to the dealer I bought the car from (northshore prestige) who then outsourced the job to another shop without my permission - stay away from there if you want anything done properly, they've failed so miserably on numerous occasions.

Edited by Delta Force

Thank god .. the ign. timing was actually 17deg as I had it checked by Unigroup so all's good and the new ecu is in. Car feels significantly faster and more responsive with remapped ecu.

Off to unigroup again in an hour or so for a power run on their dyno. Gonna test both old ecu and new one and compare results. If anyone's interested in the results, let me know I can scan them and upload here.

Hi Marc,

Any of these can look after your car with care

Hills - at $110/Hr

Croydon " "

John or Ben at Unique Auto Sports < $95/Hr

Alli or Robert at Powerplay < $90/Hr

Steve at Just Jap " "

Steve at Penrith Repco " "

Steve at Steve's Auto Barn < $80/Hr

All are experienced with Skylines and most own one or two

Cheers,

Terry former owner of 1600, 180B, 240K, C210, HR30, Silhouette, R33 GTR, & now the cars on the left hand side

PS I personally don't know about the others on the posts above, but they could be OK too.

ooo..

guys and girls...

if anyones keen to teach me how to do a spark plug, oil filter and oil change for mynext service it would be greatly appreciated...

i dont mind paying for your time!

If your willing to come down to Picton I'll show u how to do it.... No charge, maybe a beer at the pub afterwards :D

If your willing to come down to Picton I'll show u how to do it.... No charge, maybe a beer at the pub afterwards :happy:

Beer? Thought there might be a catch...

Maybe a kiss is more like it - since he asked for guys before he said girls...

Hi Marc,

Any of these can look after your car with care

Hills - at $110/Hr

Croydon " "

John or Ben at Unique Auto Sports < $95/Hr

Alli or Robert at Powerplay < $90/Hr

Steve at Just Jap " "

Steve at Penrith Repco " "

Steve at Steve's Auto Barn < $80/Hr

All are experienced with Skylines and most own one or two

Cheers,

Terry former owner of 1600, 180B, 240K, C210, HR30, Silhouette, R33 GTR, & now the cars on the left hand side

PS I personally don't know about the others on the posts above, but they could be OK too.

do you know wheres auto barn, powerplay, unique auto sports and just jap are?

If your willing to come down to Picton I'll show u how to do it.... No charge, maybe a beer at the pub afterwards :P

hmm... thanks mate will keep that in mind.. probably next time ...kind of busy with work...just looking for a good and cheap job

I also recomend advan beleive me they are not dodgy i had my car tuned from a different tuner dont think i am allowed to mention who he was but he only managed to get 170 rwkw considering my mods i thought that was crap mods are- to4e turbo external gate aftermarket top mount manifold 550cc injectors plazmaman front facing plenum bosch 300 lph intank fuel pump 3.5inch cat back exhaust pod filter fmi ems stinger 4 ecu 15psi, when i took it to advan for a diagnostic he couldnt beleive the guy let it out of the workshop with that tune so i left it at advan for acouple of days and when i got it back with 210rwkw out of my internally stock rb20det (r32 gtst) i was over the moon,

point to my story Advan are definantly not dodgy.

Edited by jap32r
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...