Jump to content
SAU Community

Cant Decide What Clutch To Buy

beRwick_GTRage
 Share

Recommended Posts

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
Posted

hey

i PM'd sliding performance about buying a clutch.

i told him i have a r32 220kw gts4 with a gtr gearbox. and that i have a exedy HD cushion button thats slipping.

he said to choose between the HD 5puk and the exedy ceremetallic. i read about jim berry clutches on sau and only saw good reviews.

my budget is $650. could i buy a jim berry that suits my car for under $650? or should i go with the ones sliding performance offered me?

this might be a stupid question, does it matter what flywheel i have? (extreme lightened) will any clutch fit any flywheel?

and where is the cheapest place i could get my clutch fitted? im in melbourne.

i was quoted over $700 labour by most mechanics, they said its a 10hr job because its 4wd

sabbadin automotive in melb quoted me $350, it sounds cheap to me but is there anywere cheaper?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220924-cant-decide-what-clutch-to-buy/
Share on other sites
beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
For your budget i would recommend an Xtreme HD cushion button.

sliding performance said not to buy a cushion button. i have a cushion button now and it didnt last very long.

the last owner went through 2 extreme HD, im not sure how long he had them for but he said they didnt last long.

what do you think of the exedy ceremetalic?

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
don't bother with the ceremetalic - won't last long if you drive hard. best off taking the plunge on the Jim Berry clutch. $350 is reasonable for a GTR box clutch fitment. not a 10 hr job if you know what you are doing...

thanks mate

can anyone else comment on the jim berry clutches?

and roughly how much would one cost that suits my setup?

thanks

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
don't bother with the ceremetalic - won't last long if you drive hard. best off taking the plunge on the Jim Berry clutch. $350 is reasonable for a GTR box clutch fitment. not a 10 hr job if you know what you are doing...

i can do it in 2 hrs...but ive had too much practice...i quote 3 1/2 hrs to do it for a customer...@ $100/hr so $350 is spot on.

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 puck, cerametalic and berry are all the same friction plates. basicly you should go with what your budget alows for. :down:

hey thanks

if you hadto choose between the three which one would you buy?

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
sliding performance said not to buy a cushion button. i have a cushion button now and it didnt last very long.

the last owner went through 2 extreme HD, im not sure how long he had them for but he said they didnt last long.

what do you think of the exedy ceremetalic?

Dont last long? I have had mine for a year and took some serious punishment.Second and third gear clutch kicks!

When removed it still had heaps of meat left.

The only time clutch plates wear is when you slip or ride the clutch too much.

Any of these clutches is going to hold your power level,just pick the one you can afford.

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Dont last long? I have had mine for a year and took some serious punishment.Second and third gear clutch kicks!

When removed it still had heaps of meat left.

The only time clutch plates wear is when you slip or ride the clutch too much.

Any of these clutches is going to hold your power level,just pick the one you can afford.

hey thanks, yeh i did ride the clutch very often

i think ill just go for the exedy HD

should i get the cushion button or the button? i have the cushion button atm, its reali heavy.

can anyone give me an opinion on the cushion button and button clutches, and which one lasts longer.

thanks

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Correct me if I am wrong, but a cushioned clutch simply has a sprung center, which means it will give a little bit when contacting the flywheel.

The plain button clutch does not do this, so if all conditions were the same, the cushioned one would last a bit longer.

For you however, it sounds like it comes down to the pressure plate - it's not clamping hard enough and the flywheel is running on the friction plate causing premature wear.

I have an Extra heavy duty Xtreme in a 290 odd rwkw gtr and I would not go with anything else - we used one at Targa Tas and it took a beating. Took me 3 1/2 years of daily driving to kill my last one - pretty good as far as I am concerned.

Jim Berry's sound like a good option too if you have the spare time to talk on the phone.

Maybe save for another month or so and get something that won't bother you again.

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Correct me if I am wrong, but a cushioned clutch simply has a sprung center, which means it will give a little bit when contacting the flywheel.

The plain button clutch does not do this, so if all conditions were the same, the cushioned one would last a bit longer.

For you however, it sounds like it comes down to the pressure plate - it's not clamping hard enough and the flywheel is running on the friction plate causing premature wear.

I have an Extra heavy duty Xtreme in a 290 odd rwkw gtr and I would not go with anything else - we used one at Targa Tas and it took a beating. Took me 3 1/2 years of daily driving to kill my last one - pretty good as far as I am concerned.

Jim Berry's sound like agood option too if you have the spare time to talk on the phone.

Maybe save for another month or so and get something that won't bother you again.

e

i dont think the clutch slipped once the clamping pressure was good for my power. it started slipping when i started riding the clutch exessively. (know i shouldnt ride the clutch)

im pretty confident that the exedy HD has the clamping pressure i need, and that it would last alot longer if

i didnt ride it.

ill definetely give jim berry a call and see what he has to offer.

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...