Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacement Box For Gtr With Engine Mod

Dohmar
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted (edited)

Heyas

I currently have 220kw on a stock gtr box which has a nasty synchro problem, (crunches 2nd, 3rd and 4th, very hard to shift into 1st at low motion). It had the shockproof oil in it when bought, whether that was the cause of the sync issue or an attempt to dampen the effect, I don't know. I only run mineral oil/semi synthetics in my boxes personally, not a fan of smurf blood.

I mainly street the car. I occasionally launch it and I do a little bit of drag racing too, but not much. Most of the time I'm just doing the usual driving, but I do like to have the gearbox change gears as quickly as possible (bear in mind that I have to be really gentle nowdays so I dont grind so much..).

Thing is, I'm gonna get new turbos and some other minor mods to try n get the engine to give me 300kw. Now, with that sort of power would the stock gearbox gears/synchros handle that enough? Depending on the answer to that, do I get a 2nd hand box, or just get my existing box's synchros/gears changed? I'm not aiming for anything super hardcore, but I don't want to spend any unnecessary cash...

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! :)

-D

Edited by Dohmar
Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

I'm running around with a 2nd hand R32 GTR gearbox in my car that has over 370rwkws and has run and won Dutton rallies which have over 70 lauches along with circuit work and 800m drags over 3 days and its never missed a beat.

Having said that when I 1st got my car I broke 2 gearboxes in the 1st 6 months I had it before I learned to drive.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

Getrag from a r34 GTR ftw!!

close ratio, nice and strong, synchro and 6 speed!!!

i think with whatever diff ratio i have it works out quiet nice, for street driving, track days and for the launch!

tho 60' times suffer a little but i'm not into drag racing at all.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm running around with a 2nd hand R32 GTR gearbox in my car that has over 370rwkws and has run and won Dutton rallies which have over 70 lauches along with circuit work and 800m drags over 3 days and its never missed a beat.

Having said that when I 1st got my car I broke 2 gearboxes in the 1st 6 months I had it before I learned to drive.

Thats pretty reassuring.... I think I'll stick with the 32 box, the 6 speed would be nice but I'm trying to keep it as inexpensive as possible.

So I'll probably get my current box reconditioned with new synchros, might cost me more than a straight 2nd hand box but at least I'll know its good for a while... that is unless someone out there is selling a 5 speed which they know is in good nick :P

thanks for your help guys... appreciate it!

-D

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Getrag from a r34 GTR ftw!!

close ratio, nice and strong, synchro and 6 speed!!!

i think with whatever diff ratio i have it works out quiet nice, for street driving, track days and for the launch!

tho 60' times suffer a little but i'm not into drag racing at all.

I'm not so sure about that. it's a nice street box, but lots of serious 34 GTRs I know of switch back to the 33/32 type boxes for any track or drag use.

edit: see snowmans post above...

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted
I'm not so sure about that. it's a nice street box, but lots of serious 34 GTRs I know of switch back to the 33/32 type boxes for any track or drag use.

edit: see snowmans post above...

Yerrp this is true, tho there are some big hp 34's that still run the box too.

tho then again mines got nismo goodies inside it.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Series 3.5 R33 GTR boxes have better synchro's.

3200 from just jap

would like to know more dude, i know nowt about about synchros but thats where my problem lies atm.... theyre 18 yrs old, shagged and i need a good shift up to 300 kw....

-D

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Yerrp this is true, tho there are some big hp 34's that still run the box too.

tho then again mines got nismo goodies inside it.

the 'nismo goodies' is just an upgraded input shaft. the stock getrag shaft has been known to twist especially when you have decent power and a hard core clutch. so nismo when they desinged a clutch kit added an upgraded input shaft to it. you get the input shaft when you buy a nismo 34 GTR clutch. but it doesn't do anything for the strength of the gears or the ratios, or the synchros. it's just one short little shaft that send power into the front of the box that is changed over. I would say whoever was using the box before you was using a nismo clutch with it hence the reason it had the input shaft in there from the clutch kit. :D

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted (edited)

Save yourself a bucketload of money and drop in a second hand GTR box.

GTR boxes should not be rooted with only 220kw.. Rb20 boxes shit themselfs and do in bearings and strip gears at that power, not GTR boxes

Perhaps previous owener just abused it?

How do you drive it? Heal and toe? Double clutch?

thats my 2c

Edited by GTS4WD
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Save yourself a bucketload of money and drop in a second hand GTR box.

GTR boxes should not be rooted with only 220kw.. Rb20 boxes shit themselfs and do in bearings and strip gears at that power, not GTR boxes

Perhaps previous owener just abused it?

How do you drive it? Heal and toe? Double clutch?

thats my 2c

I do a little bit of heel/toe when going around a corner but really not much. I just drive around the city and try not to draw attention to myself. I've never double clutched (dont know anything about it). The previous owner did abuse the shite out of the box which is why they had the redline shockproof gunk in it. Its mainly the synchros which are rooted, the gears themselves feel really good. Just shifting into gear after acceleration can cause the grind... if I let the engine rev down to 3-4 it usually slips in OK but anything above 4k is grind city... Im mainly just curious cause the extra power I want to draw later on when I get turbos replaced. I don't think I need the OSG kit at all, and if the stock GTR boxes are as ballsy as their reputation leads me to believe, then I should be ok. Bear in mind its an 18 yr old gearbox which has undoubtably been thrashed out by its previous owner... thats the way I look at it at least. So if I can get a decent 2nd hand box I should be ok.... otherwise its synchro+thrust bearing replacement (which is probably more expensive?)

Not too sure really...

-D

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

A lot to do with the clutch. Get a solid centre POS clutch that will break your gearbox, get a cushion center clutch that wont send shocks through the gearbox and its much harder to break.

R33 GTR Series 3 gearboxes have a bit stronger syncros. You can buy them brand new from justjap or nissan for about 3.2k. Or stick a 2nd hand 32/33 GTR box in for a grand or so.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A lot to do with the clutch. Get a solid centre POS clutch that will break your gearbox, get a cushion center clutch that wont send shocks through the gearbox and its much harder to break.

R33 GTR Series 3 gearboxes have a bit stronger syncros. You can buy them brand new from justjap or nissan for about 3.2k. Or stick a 2nd hand 32/33 GTR box in for a grand or so.

Yeah I got a 6puk Jim Berry clutch on its way for when I do fit the replacement box... with my old box, would it be worth selling as a shagged box to someone or getting it fixed incase I stuff up the replacement? Going to go with a stock 32 box, cant really afford 3.2k

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RA708
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By RA708 · Posted

      Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • MBS206
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • GTSBoy
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Duncan
      R33 general questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...