Jump to content
SAU Community

Newbie Question About Pod Filter And Bov

POLICE
 Share

Recommended Posts

POLICE Mentor

POLICE

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I've put a new pod filter in my skyline due to the piping of the FMIC

anyway it's making shitloads of boost sound even at 2000rpm

is there a way I can control that like buy a boost controller or something???

I really have no idea about forced induction stuff

so if any1 has a pic of where they installed their boost controller that'll be much appreciated

Thanks

POLICE Mentor

POLICE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've actually got the airbox, the brand is the netami gold pod filter

there is a hole where the old SMIC piping was,

of which I connected a tube for air intake under the front bar

it makes less noise with the air box but still quite annoyiny when all I want is to drive it normally

the standard airbox can be modified but I'd have to cut a large chunk out of the air intake

which will render it to be not very efficient

Edited by POLICE
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

When you gota pod filter on, it will make that sucking noise. Its what a pod does.

No point putting a boost controller in to lower the boost on your stock turbo. (BTW Your turbo is stock right?)

I like have the sucking noise with my car, sounds great!

JAS-25T Grand Master

JAS-25T

Posted
Posted
I've actually got the airbox, the brand is the netami gold pod filter

there is a hole where the old SMIC piping was,

of which I connected a tube for air intake under the front bar

it makes less noise with the air box but still quite annoyiny when all I want is to drive it normally

the standard airbox can be modified but I'd have to cut a large chunk out of the air intake

which will render it to be not very efficient

What material is it made from? paper? cotton? steel?

If you want to keep the pod - get one that is paper or cotton - that will quiten it down.

else

fit the stock air box up with a paper or highflow panel filter.

4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
Posted

i know what you could be going through, i just took the pod filter of my v8 ute and put the the big airbox with over the radiator surround intake (mouth) because the sound of the induction noise on the pod (paper filter) was very loud, even idleing...

but the HKS pod pn (foam pod filter) my r33, the induction noise gets louder when you are comming onto boost, i do like the induction noise it gives, a deep howling noise...

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

The induction sound is air sucked through the pod AND the compressor turbine spinning and compressing that air, which was previously muffled with the stock airbox + filter. It's normal (and sounds sahweet) as you come on boost from around 2000RPM+.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

haha @ GTST.

There is no way of getting rid of the induction noise with the pod, even if you box it. You'd need some thick heat insulation in there to make quieten it down, but even then I'd highly doubt it'd get rid of the noise like a stock air box.

Pod induction noise, you either love it or hate it. Or just learn to live with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...