Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I believe the LM-01 has the ability to simulate narrow band outputs. You could do that. However, Most wide band do not like excessive heat, unlike their narrow band brothers, and can foul up easily. I would suggest that you weld in a second O2 bung midway between the turbo and the cat. This way you will not get incorrect readings from the sensor getting too hot, and falling out of calibration, nor will you get a delayed readout from having a sniffer tube up the exhaust pipe.

Recalibration of the wideband sensors can be done by yourself, but it is time consuming. They are something that you use for tuning, etc and remove as the sensors can be damaged if they are used continually like the narrowbands.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221767-tuning-your-car/#findComment-3909692
Share on other sites

evo DIY tuning FTW :D i have an innovate LC-1 no

put the sensor about 1 meter from the turbo but before the cat (as the cat will change the reading slightly).

a bung will need to be welded to put the sensor, and it has to be between 10 and 2 O clock position.

recalibration takes about 1-2 mins... but best to pull the sensor out of the exhaust so that it calibrates from clean air, taking the sensor out will take longer as you may need to jack the car up. recalibration only needs to be done approx 2 times a year at the max, for a turbo daily driven car.

keep the sensor powered all the times the car is running.

on a cold/humid morning do not keep the ign (sensor powered) while the car is not running.

once installed and as long as you obey the above instructions the sensor can last for a couple of years without problem in a daily driven car.

buy one from the states, due to aussie dollar it should cost about $250-300 to get one delivered.... depending on dyno prices it might just be cheaper to get proper dyno time than an LC1. unless you are inclined to fiddle a lot. plus the sensors are a little fragile and can die.

EDIT: just found that the LM1 will be supersceeded by LM2 so currently you can pickup a new LM1 for $280USD plus postage.

http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=IN-3723

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221767-tuning-your-car/#findComment-3913537
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...