Putting Power To The Ground

[R34NRG]

NEO head

GT3540 Turbo

Forged 3.0L bottom end

car made around 340kw at the wheels on 18psi.

car makes boost at around 2800-3000 and hits full bost just around 3500-4000rpm. sorry if my estimates are a lil vague i havnt had the car back for long.

very very streetable....its almost as if there is no lag considering the turbo size.

unfortunately there is just absolutely no traction in most of 2nd and 3rd when it hits boost. it dosnt help that im running 19" Volks and it dosnt help that its got shit tyres.

but they are 9.5" wide.

i was planning on gettin some sort of semi slicks/drag radials ect ect but im worried that if the car does get enough traction, how would the drivetrain hold up?

how are the R34 GTT factory Drive trains with holding power? do they tend to snap?

any recommendations for putting the car tot he ground a bit better?

im considering getting some custom made 19x11 or possible 19x12 wheels made to aid traction on the rears, but its only an idea atm.

dont get me wrong the thing flies...but just very sideways

pics to come sortly

Edited June 1, 2008 by R34NRG

[Basti]

try the obvious. better tyres, less throttle

[R34NRG]

try the obvious. better tyres, less throttle

i just stated that im lookn at getting better tyres but am worried about drivetrain issues......... and if im tryin to run a quick time down the 1/4 mile or anywhere else for that matter its pretty much useless talking throttle becauase it defeats the purpose of running a fast time. sure i can use throttle to a point where there is no traction loss but its stupid to the point that id run faster times in reverse. i understand what your trying to say but believe me when i say throttle is the least important problem ive got.

i dont want to sound like im trying to push advice away like everyone suggests i do all the time, but im just trying to point out that its not a throttle issue. i know for a fact its not the way i drive, its just the amount of toqrue the car produces and at the speed it does...it just dosnt work. it dosnt matter of its off the line or on a rolling start, as soon as the car hits boost its laterz.

i must stress though the tyres are very shit.

but i would like to start a convo on what ppl think of "Nitto" tyres. they have Sizes in 19" which is my only option, im not lookn at getting different sizes rim wise.

problem is they dont deal in Australia officialy, that i know of anyway. any one know where Their Range is available?

Edited June 1, 2008 by R34NRG

[-_-StRyDeR-_-]

whats your suspenion like?? i hope my 30 has the same go as yours haha.

[rb26s13]

running 19's isnt really goin to help either as your basically on big rubber bands.. perhaps drop down to 18's or 17's.. and try get a bit of sidewall working with you aswell.. but it really does come down to suspension

[The Mafia]

I bet the car is about an inch off the ground.

+1 for suspension.

[FineLine]

i just stated that im lookn at getting better tyres but am worried about drivetrain issues......... and if im tryin to run a quick time down the 1/4 mile or anywhere else for that matter its pretty much useless talking throttle becauase it defeats the purpose of running a fast time. sure i can use throttle to a point where there is no traction loss but its stupid to the point that id run faster times in reverse. i understand what your trying to say but believe me when i say throttle is the least important problem ive got.

i dont want to sound like im trying to push advice away like everyone suggests i do all the time, but im just trying to point out that its not a throttle issue. i know for a fact its not the way i drive, its just the amount of toqrue the car produces and at the speed it does...it just dosnt work. it dosnt matter of its off the line or on a rolling start, as soon as the car hits boost its laterz.

i must stress though the tyres are very shit.

but i would like to start a convo on what ppl think of "Nitto" tyres. they have Sizes in 19" which is my only option, im not lookn at getting different sizes rim wise.

problem is they dont deal in Australia officialy, that i know of anyway. any one know where Their Range is available?

If you are referring to the nitto drag radials there are other things to consider, They will be very much like the mickey T's in that sure they will bite when they are warm but they will also have a softer sidewall which makes them bloody hopeless for general driving where corners are involved etc.

I am punching out around 370 rwkw atm and i have no probs hooking up. Good suspension and federal semi slicks work fine on my car. Sure I can snap it free if i want but driven properly it tucks and bites no probs at all.

As for your drive train concerns if you were worried about it why the hell did you mod in the first place.

[666DAN]

lol I was just about to say why didn't you aim for more streetable power than going for gold with a dyno queen setup

[Sydneykid]

In regard to setting up a 2wd drag Skyline, I posted this recently (that's why the Search button is so handly);

You want no more then 3 kg/mm rear springs, around 2.5 kg/, is better. You want rear shocks with very little low frequency bump valving but a large amount of low frequency rebound damping. If the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres. The problem is you get a lot of dynamic negative camber when you get enough squat, so you need to set the static rear camber slightly positive (around 0.5 deggres). A rear subframe alignment kit installed in the "Maximum Traction" positions is also a must.

Around 3.5 to 4.0 kg/mm front springs are OK (hardly "hard"). You want front shocks with a large amount of low frequency bump valving but with very little low frequency rebound damping. Similarly to the rear, if the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear. The reasonable front spring rate helps to hold the front tyres onto the track, you may need to steer at some point. The front suspension geometry is pretty much irrelevant, just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead (zero toe) so they don't provide too much drag.

In a general sense the average Japanese aftermarket coil over kits are not suitable for drag racing and the standard suspension is better. But (there is always a "but") the problem with the rear standard shocks is that they don't have anywhere near enough rebound damping. That's when they are new, let alone 15 or so years old. So you get bad axle tramp, the kind that breaks drive shafts. The more power the car has, the worse this problem becomes. In a standard'ish Skyline (boost up, FMIC, exhaust etc) you might just get away with it (standard shocks) on street tyres. But drag radials or slicks and decent power don't mix well with poor rebound control. You will spend more money/time replacing drive shafts than you will spending the extra on buying the right shock spring combo.

That should be enough to get you thinking in the right direction

Cheers

Gary

[R34NRG]

I bet the car is about an inch off the ground.

actually its still factory suspension. quite ridiculously high -____-"

As for your drive train concerns if you were worried about it why the hell did you mod in the first place.

worried dosnt mean im not gonna give up or anything. i just want to be prepared if anything was expected to happen. i kinda took it a step at a time, as i still got factory suspension i wanted to see how the car went. if it wasnt up to par i would mod accordingly after that.

sounds quite logical if you ask me

The more power the car has, the worse this problem becomes. In a standard'ish Skyline (boost up, FMIC, exhaust etc) you might just get away with it (standard shocks) on street tyres. But drag radials or slicks and decent power don't mix well with poor rebound control. You will spend more money/time replacing drive shafts than you will spending the extra on buying the right shock spring combo.

That should be enough to get you thinking in the right direction

Cheers

Gary

as i am quite the noob in the suspension and drivetrain area. what type of modifications can be done to insure drive shafts stay in tact.

ive read countless times that nothing beats standard suspension for straight line drags to a certain extent. i know that coilovers are just to hard and dont offer enough "squash" effect. i could only see myself getting a shock and spring combo, but like i said above im worried about the drive train holding up when i do get traction.

so drive train wise where do i go from here? my options?

CHeers

[FineLine]

How deep is your wallet. Plenty of options available. I am using a j/b full monty clutch. standard 25 gearbox. Custom hardy spicer tailshaft anda gtr alsd and half shafts. I guess my gear box is the weak link or so they say but it hasnt given a moments concern to date. If it does I will look to updating it with stronger internals.

There are a squillion clutch options out there as well as numerous g/box and t/shaft options. Do a search and you will find a group buy on carbon shafts ex usa. That might be more to your liking.

In the meantine dont cry until you get smacked. You might be surprised how strong the standard drivetrain is if you are not an abuser.

[R34NRG]

im running a single plate exedy clutch and it seems to be holding power fine. but its still sorta new so time will tell.

jsut curious though how much are we talking for aftermarket tailshafts? is it most likely the gear box or the tail that is more prone to break?

i pretty much granny my car, cant remember the last time i was on the limiter. just your average joe squirts here and there....

[Sydneykid]

actually its still factory suspension. quite ridiculously high -____-"

worried dosnt mean im not gonna give up or anything. i just want to be prepared if anything was expected to happen. i kinda took it a step at a time, as i still got factory suspension i wanted to see how the car went. if it wasnt up to par i would mod accordingly after that.

sounds quite logical if you ask me

as i am quite the noob in the suspension and drivetrain area. what type of modifications can be done to insure drive shafts stay in tact.

ive read countless times that nothing beats standard suspension for straight line drags to a certain extent. i know that coilovers are just to hard and dont offer enough "squash" effect. i could only see myself getting a shock and spring combo, but like i said above im worried about the drive train holding up when i do get traction.

so drive train wise where do i go from here? my options?

CHeers

We ran an 11.4 at 129 mph on standard drivetrain (+ Exedy clutch) in an R34GTT, so there is plenty of capacity in the standard stuff. Then you might find that you have to service the components, for example new standard drive shafts are better than the well used ones that you have now. If you start breaking new stuff, which is unlikely at your power levels, then you will need to look at upgrading. I haven't seen a lot of specific R34GTT drive train upgraded components. Personally I would go to a complete R34GTR rear end, subframe, diff, driveshafts, the lot. If you start breaking that stuff then you have an upgrade path with off the shelf stuff available.

Gearbox wise, if you are serious about drag racing then an auto is the only way to go, for around $3K they are impossible to beat value for money. If you aren't serious about drag racing, then a closs ratio synchro gearset is the first step, Trust have them amongst others. Then it's a close ratio dog selector internals from PPG ($9K) or Hollinger ($16K). The top level is then a sequentlial close ratio dog selector gearbox from Hollinger for a shade under $20K.

My suggestion, get the suspension sorted, buy some drag specific tyres (I use MT radials) and get out and have a go.

Cheers

Gary

[R34NRG]

My suggestion, get the suspension sorted, buy some drag specific tyres (I use MT radials) and get out and have a go.

Cheers

Gary

wise words SK.....as always

would u be able to offer more infomation on your radials? are they street legal? purchsed from MT directly? Price? size and profile? are they the ET streets?

would u go for anything else if u had another chance at buying tyres?

[Sydneykid]

would u be able to offer more infomation on your radials? are they street legal?

Yes, but I wouldn't drive anywhere with them on, other than from the pits to the track.

purchsed from MT directly?

I actually got the last set from an SAU Group Buy, try a search.

Price?

It's in the Group Buy thread

size and profile?

255 x 16's

are they the ET streets?

Yep

would u go for anything else if u had another chance at buying tyres?

A full on drag slick would be better, but that involves ANDRA regs, front runners etc. A radial is much easier for us as we are not seriously into drag racing these days.

Cheers

Gary

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

have you thought about setting up an ebc (for street use) that build boost more gradually throughout the rev range?

with the 3l there should be enough torque to keep you happy...

also why get custom 11inch rims? there are plenty of options out there...

[drgnball34]

i just ordered tein ss coils for my 34gtt. Can i still tweak and set them up for traction? Other mods will be R888's, rear camber kit, subframe brushes and hicas lock bar.

[Sydneykid]

i just ordered tein ss coils for my 34gtt. Can i still tweak and set them up for traction?

Nope, their high frequency bump valving is far from ideal for drag racing and that is not adjustable.

Other mods will be R888's, rear camber kit, subframe brushes and hicas lock bar.

That's all OK, but obviously you would be much better off with a proper drag radial.

Cheers

Gary