Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put in laymans terms HICAS makes the car easier to drive on the limit but not faster. So if you think you are good enough, lock it and you might gain a bit of lap time. It doesn't start working till you are aggressive with the car, so it won't help you park the car or get around the supermarket easier.

  • 1 month later...

OK i have a R33 with Hicas.I cahnges the steering to an after market wheel now the hicas light comes on. I thought it may of been the boss kit but where i bought it from assures me it correct.My fluids are topped up but the hicas light still comes on after about 20 minutes of driving and normally once i reach over 80km-100km per hour approx. If you have a soulution to my promlem it would be great if you can email me at

[email protected]

thanks

My Hicas light comes on now and then. Standard steering wheel. When my car is goingstraight ahead the wheel is rotated a few degrees...is this a possible reason. Or is it more serious. IId just like to get the annoying orange light off the dash. If I pull the fuse when the light is off will this keep the light off or will it just stay on??

Thanks

My Hicas light comes on now and then.  Standard steering wheel.   When my car is goingstraight ahead the wheel is rotated a few degrees...is this a possible reason.  Or is it more serious.  IId just like to get the annoying orange light off the dash.  If I pull the fuse when the light is off will this keep the light off or will it just stay on??

Thanks

From what I know pulling the fuse will cause the light to come on aswell.

My wheel is also not centered when the car is going straight. I assume its just a dodgey install of an aftermarket wheel though (I didnt do it!).

The light coming on shows that there is a problem with the sensors. HICAS kicks in after 80kph. so if the light is coming on that means that the sensors either in the steering wheel or the sensors on the wheels dont line up. My advice is to get the steering wheel re done and get someone to check the angle and camber of your rear wheels. If the light is constantly on then there is a real problem, usually the car has had a aftermarket steering wheel on and had it removed before selling. So if you can, remove the steering wheel and check the sensors, or take it to someone that can do it.

Check your fluid levels too.

Cheers

Loz

  • 1 year later...
the hicas light on my car pretty much stays on all the time but occasionally turns off, i have an r32 i was wondering if the diagnostic procedure is the same .

They are different , R32 = Mechanical - R33 = Electronic - id say it saves weight being electronic. Not sure about later R32 GTR models like the 94, maybe have electronic.

No, hicas light does not come on when becomes active.. I noticed some people dont realize their hicas is working, obivously havnt driven enough in other cars. to know the difference.

  • 5 months later...

Vehicle: R32 GTR

Problem: After a minute or two the steering becomes heavy, soon followed by the HICAS light illuminating on the dash cluster.

My Solution: HICAS ECU is kaput! This can be located in the boot on the drivers side under the parcel shelf.

How to test yours: Under the parcel shelf three 10mm head bolts hold in the ECU, undo these then unclip the ECU, replace with one from a car with working HICAS. For my test I used the HICAS ECU from a R32 GTSt, worked excellently, only took 5 mins to d the swap and back, and probably about 10 minutes driving it. Hopefully this will make it easier to test the ECU before you buy and fit a lock bar and rip out all the HICAS system.

My problem, which I've had no luck in getting anyone to know what I'm on about:

Sometimes when I turn on my car (not all the time, it didn't do it for around 3 weeks but now it's about every third time I turn it on), the HICAS light stays on. Solid. The whole time it's on, it feels like I have no power steering, eg. the wheel is sluggish and hard to turn.

I've checked fluids. That's all fine there.

I've got a MOMO steering wheel, but the HKB boss kit (HKB = HICAS compliant), so there's no problems there. If there was a problem there, it'd be permanent, not just every now and then.

Anyone got any ideas? I'll be performing a diagnostic this weekend, so I guess I'll post up the results of that then rip the car apart till I can find it. Then lock the damn thing down anyway.

My problem, which I've had no luck in getting anyone to know what I'm on about:

Sometimes when I turn on my car (not all the time, it didn't do it for around 3 weeks but now it's about every third time I turn it on), the HICAS light stays on. Solid. The whole time it's on, it feels like I have no power steering, eg. the wheel is sluggish and hard to turn.

I've checked fluids. That's all fine there.

I've got a MOMO steering wheel, but the HKB boss kit (HKB = HICAS compliant), so there's no problems there. If there was a problem there, it'd be permanent, not just every now and then.

Anyone got any ideas? I'll be performing a diagnostic this weekend, so I guess I'll post up the results of that then rip the car apart till I can find it. Then lock the damn thing down anyway.

consult that bad boy, or try swap ecu with a friends?

i have a small question.... if i start my car (R32) abd just let it idle for about 5 min the light will light up and stay on!!!!! what is this?

And the steering goes real stiff!!!

But when i turn it off and on again, as long as i move or start driving it will be sweet!

just wondering is that a normal thing?

cheers

kezza

Hi Kezza,

Seems that you and CPD are experiencing similar problems, just different signs. My guess is that both computers in each case are dying or are close to it.

Check with some wreckers for a HICAS unit (SSS /Just Jap/ ebay perhaps)

Simple plug and play computer located in the boot on the upper inside of the boot line near the battery.

Try that guys see how you go.

Better yet, get a mate's car and play swapsies and see what happens.....

Cheers

Loz

Thanks lozza, im not sure if i should just leave it till it does die... or get in now and do it b4 it does!!! it only seems to do it sometimes, and its only when your not using the steering... just idling for over 5 min!!! hard to say hey!!! maybe the subs are killing the computer, seeing its so damm close to the subs!!! but thanks for your help :D

kezza

What I'm going to do is rip out the HICAS computer (I'm assuming it's the shiny silver box attached to the underside of the parcel shelf?) and check to see if there's any loose connections in it or the cable going to it. Because it's only every now and then, it might be due to a loose connection, so here's hoping.

Lozza, my problem isn't so much when it sits there idle, it's just randomly (around 30% of the time) when I turn the car on, HICAS light will be on and steering sluggish, and it'll stay that way until I turn it off and wander off, say to the shops. Even then, sometimes it'll be on again when I come back, but all in all, say 30% of the time. But yeah, checking the computer time, methinks.

What I'm going to do is rip out the HICAS computer (I'm assuming it's the shiny silver box attached to the underside of the parcel shelf?) and check to see if there's any loose connections in it or the cable going to it. Because it's only every now and then, it might be due to a loose connection, so here's hoping.

Lozza, my problem isn't so much when it sits there idle, it's just randomly (around 30% of the time) when I turn the car on, HICAS light will be on and steering sluggish, and it'll stay that way until I turn it off and wander off, say to the shops. Even then, sometimes it'll be on again when I come back, but all in all, say 30% of the time. But yeah, checking the computer time, methinks.

maybe this is two problems, but linked to the speed sensor in the dash?

my hicas was fine when the dash fuse blew, worked fine and powersteering didnt go heavy, now it has the dash running again the same old problem is occuring

  • 3 weeks later...
What I'm going to do is rip out the HICAS computer (I'm assuming it's the shiny silver box attached to the underside of the parcel shelf?) and check to see if there's any loose connections in it or the cable going to it. Because it's only every now and then, it might be due to a loose connection, so here's hoping.

Lozza, my problem isn't so much when it sits there idle, it's just randomly (around 30% of the time) when I turn the car on, HICAS light will be on and steering sluggish, and it'll stay that way until I turn it off and wander off, say to the shops. Even then, sometimes it'll be on again when I come back, but all in all, say 30% of the time. But yeah, checking the computer time, methinks.

I have the same problem as you, would be good to know if we can find out what it is

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...