Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I also had problems with my HICAS with the light coming on after start up but would go away when you turn ignition off then on again once car warmed up. This occurred around 6 months ago. In the last 2 month the HICAS light would suddenly come on during driving and the steering would go heavy. Any who, it ended up being the HICAS control module. I replaced a leaking capacitor and cleaned up all the corrosive liquid on the PCB. Car is a 93 R33 gts-t.

Hope this helps..

hey..

my hicas light comes on after driving along the highway for any more then about 5-10mins.. doesnt go off until car is turned off. but normal around town type driving it never comes on.. also when its on after driving on hughway the steering doesnt seem to change at all..

any ideas?

Do you have an after market steering wheel?

Have you tried the diagnostics?

Can you replicate the problem every time you are on the highway?

yes i have a "personal" brand steering wheel..

nothing shows on diagnostics..

yes problem happens everytime without fail..

Edited by 02_FNE

It maybe your steering wheel that is causing the problem. Not sure what type of angle sensor used but since the control module is not showing an error code the problem may only be minor. Has this light come up ever since you had the steering wheel replaced?

It maybe your steering wheel that is causing the problem. Not sure what type of angle sensor used but since the control module is not showing an error code the problem may only be minor. Has this light come up ever since you had the steering wheel replaced?

not sure mate, i got the car with this steering wheel already in it.. as far as my memory recalls its always done it..

i thought it was strange that it doesnt seem to change the actual steering at all..

my understanding is that that brand of steering wheel is a nissan owned company or brand or something along those lines..

There are a few threads on this site that talks about the HICAS light coming up after steering wheel/BOSS has been replaced. I think they also say that it only comes up after long straight driving as is done on the highways. The problem in your car should be easily sorted as the symptom is easily replicated.

Buy!

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
hey ummm i have a question

my HICAS lights turns on

EVERTYTIME , at the exact distance of 10km or so of driving

i time it the spot where i usually go to work n back home

it always turns on at the same area.

so what's wrong with it?

HICAS isn't really a major problem is it?

cheers.

SAME HERE! no idea what it is though? the diagnostic never works for me. i'm assuming it's the steering angle sensor because i can't enter the diagnostic. i'd assume the steering angle sensor is what puts it in diagnostic mode with the left right turns and the brake pumping. when you exceed 80 k's does your steering wheel turn one way slightly and then correct itself when you go back below 80? mine does. until the light comes on. then it stops...

SAME HERE! no idea what it is though? the diagnostic never works for me. i'm assuming it's the steering angle sensor because i can't enter the diagnostic. i'd assume the steering angle sensor is what puts it in diagnostic mode with the left right turns and the brake pumping. when you exceed 80 k's does your steering wheel turn one way slightly and then correct itself when you go back below 80? mine does. until the light comes on. then it stops...

Steering wheel 'rolling over' at speed (increasing as speeds pass 60kph) is what happened on my car when the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned with the wheels.

If you cant answer the diagnostic mode at all - sounds like your steering angle sensor isn't working though. Do you have an aftermarket boss? Nissan dealers with CONSULT should be able to get into the HICAS diagnostics and pinpoint exactly what's wrong (that's what I did).

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

i did the test on my r32 gtr and i got 4 quick short pulses followed by the hicas light staing on for afew seconds...

then after that i kept my car on and still in the diagnostic mode, and it did 4 quick pulses followed by the hicas light staying on for a few seconds

what did it pick up as been the fault ??

the hicas is giving me the shits i need to sort this out ASAP !!!

hope someone can help me !

thanks

someone have a look at my thread and see if you can offer any advice. much appreciated.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hi...ng-t312556.html

i'm thinking hicas ecu may be faulty. it has the trademark 3 capacitors with a very slight stain below them that may indicate some previous leakage.

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Steering wheel 'rolling over' at speed (increasing as speeds pass 60kph) is what happened on my car when the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned with the wheels.

If you cant answer the diagnostic mode at all - sounds like your steering angle sensor isn't working though. Do you have an aftermarket boss? Nissan dealers with CONSULT should be able to get into the HICAS diagnostics and pinpoint exactly what's wrong (that's what I did).

Must be a different problem with mine.. it has had the problem since i bought the car (with standard steering wheel) and still has it with my after market one..

might be a dodge connection somewhere..

  • 1 month later...
My problem, which I've had no luck in getting anyone to know what I'm on about:

Sometimes when I turn on my car (not all the time, it didn't do it for around 3 weeks but now it's about every third time I turn it on), the HICAS light stays on. Solid. The whole time it's on, it feels like I have no power steering, eg. the wheel is sluggish and hard to turn.

I've checked fluids. That's all fine there.

I've got a MOMO steering wheel, but the HKB boss kit (HKB = HICAS compliant), so there's no problems there. If there was a problem there, it'd be permanent, not just every now and then.

Anyone got any ideas? I'll be performing a diagnostic this weekend, so I guess I'll post up the results of that then rip the car apart till I can find it. Then lock the damn thing down anyway.

Hey all,

Ive got the same problem where once the HICAS light is on the steering becomes very heavy but after I switch of the car and go to switch it on again all my electrics fail there is a wire that got fixed by an R.A.C man and once i move that around the electrics come back on and there is no more HICAS light on this is only recent and is becoming more frequent.

Im not sure whats going on with the car but if anyone knows of any solutions would be greatly appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...