Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah the pic I posted above shows the maltec braided clutch line, I got mine from UAS who have them in stock. couple of reasons for this car:

* it removes that ridiculous clutch damper system and replaces it with a direct line

* increased clearance to the fuel rail when motor is going in and out because the line comes out at 90o and goes straight down due to the banjo fitting

* removes the short factory line which I think is suspect after 18 years.

If you are running the sump extention, then you cannot run the sump baffle, and it would be pointless anyway. The sump extention comes with it's own round baffle, which is a cylinder with holes in it, which reaches down to the bottom of the extention. It welds on to the standard sump trays. It also comes with and extended pickup. The sump baffle kit would sit above the sump extention with the oil below it, making it pointless and it would foul on the baffle that comes with the sump extention kit.

If you are running the sump extention, then you cannot run the sump baffle, and it would be pointless anyway. The sump extention comes with it's own round baffle, which is a cylinder with holes in it, which reaches down to the bottom of the extention. It welds on to the standard sump trays. It also comes with and extended pickup. The sump baffle kit would sit above the sump extention with the oil below it, making it pointless and it would foul on the baffle that comes with the sump extention kit.

You cannot run the TRUST one....but who mentioned TRUST?....not me...not Andrew...i thought he just meant extending the sump. I had an extended sump which i sold to a customer in the ACT which was extended below the Tomei baffle and had an extended pick-up...worked very well.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Well i was thinking of modifiying the sump around the tomei baffle style. so i could have a bit of an extension and use the trap doors tomei have given me, or maybe i can sell the baffle and go the hi octane one..

possibly do the rb sump similar to the wing style like the aftermarket sr20 ones

Yes it is possible to still run the Tomei baffle with a sump extension.

Why would you want a 6 inch blond when there are so many nicer 6 foot ones?

as for the 6' blond, your right a 6' foot size 6-8 anything would be ok also! haha

Well i was thinking of modifiying the sump around the tomei baffle style. so i could have a bit of an extension and use the trap doors tomei have given me, or maybe i can sell the baffle and go the hi octane one..

possibly do the rb sump similar to the wing style like the aftermarket sr20 ones

as for the 6' blond, your right a 6' foot size 6-8 anything would be ok also! haha

For simplicity id go the Hi Octane one...sell the Tomei baffle kit to someone with a streeter.The sump i had was already modified in Japan complete with baffle kit and had a box the same as the internal diameter of the tomei kit that extended down about 3 inches below the baffle from memory. It works well but the Performance Metalcraft/Hi Octane item is a better option and the one i went with. It will hold more oil too.

Edited by DiRTgarage

The clutch pedal in my white gtr was abit hit n miss with the factory clutch line, fitted a maltec braided line, removed that extension bit that runs beside the gearbox, fitted a new slave, went to wsid and the clutch felt soooo much more solid that on the second run my flywheel parted company :D

Yahoo, just got home and i have

post-31456-1221555957_thumb.jpg

And

post-31456-1221556018_thumb.jpg

Just waiting on Arp parts and i will be ready to build!

yahooooooo!

pistons were a bit of a mess, not sure if i like mahle's packing too well there a few tiny nicks hopefully they wont be of any problem.

hahah half your luck.....there are now 4 gtrs without motors in marks front yard. and 2 motors ready to go on stands, one ready to go on its subframe, and one ready to clean and assemble.

its like a fcuking wrecking yard.

btw brad I spoke to mark, drop by on the weekend, we can organise that bending....

Yahoo, just got home and i have

post-31456-1221555957_thumb.jpg

And

post-31456-1221556018_thumb.jpg

Just waiting on Arp parts and i will be ready to build!

yahooooooo!

pistons were a bit of a mess, not sure if i like mahle's packing too well there a few tiny nicks hopefully they wont be of any problem.

Nice looking rods! Shame they'll be hidden in a block!

Wierd I was just mentioning that really nice n light intercooler on my olg gtr Duncan.... new owner has just posted it for sale, in case your interested;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ar...er-t236454.html

Yahoo, just got home and i have

post-31456-1221555957_thumb.jpg

And

post-31456-1221556018_thumb.jpg

Just waiting on Arp parts and i will be ready to build!

yahooooooo!

pistons were a bit of a mess, not sure if i like mahle's packing too well there a few tiny nicks hopefully they wont be of any problem.

I've been running my Pauter rods now for 5 years and 2 engine failures/rebuilds. Now partnered with a HKS stroker crank and shortened HKS coated pistons. They are almost indestructable.

haha thanks Ben I saw that thread....but the price is more than the rest of this car :) we're on this path for now, if we do ever give up I can't image anything except a chinese cooler going on :)

haha thanks Ben I saw that thread....but the price is more than the rest of this car :P we're on this path for now, if we do ever give up I can't image anything except a chinese cooler going on :D

I have/had a chinese cooler and cant fault it.

Finally got my dry sump belts today which was the only thing stopping mine from being finished.

Then onto the next one.

what are u guys doing with the g sensor thats usually under the console? can u move it or wont it work correctly anymore? im thinking of throwing mine under the dash area to get it out the way (obviously mount it level and straight as it is now), do u think this would cause any issues?

Don't think it's a good idea to move it. I'm sure it will still work, but it will work best when located in the most central part of the wheelbase. I suspect it should actually be moved backwards a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...