Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[BezerkR32]

your not re-using head bolts are you guys, thought you would have splashed out on a stud kit.

this could be an early warning sign. im all for cost conservation, but in the right places.

oh.

maybe we should lash out and buy a set:(

[haw001]

Angus,

I've got that steering bush ready. Still got that bumper?

*Whoops, just looked back 2 posts. I'm in town this week. Where abouts are you and what time?

[Duncan]

yeah we never got it tapped for a head stud kit. but you're right considering how its going to be (ab)used we should at least check new bolts in.

[haw001]

Pshaw, I checked the head bolts, they aren't stretched at all (I know you cant really check them like conrod bolts). Seriously, I have never heard of a RB26 headbolt being the cause of failure. I have heard of failure but not as the cause, more as a result of something else going wrong. Correct me if you've had it happen to you

[Duncan]

umm well there was this one motor i had where the head bolts stretched enough that the head was rattling around and not holding any compression (or coolant)

you might remember that one can't really blame the bolts as you say they were effect not cause

[haw001]

Not sure what you are talking about Duncan...

[giant]

hey dunc

you may already know this but if you go to heads studs over stock, if ya use ARP'S shorten them up as there too long and stick up about 10mm past the nut and hinder oil return flow & there already bad enough at that.

also make sure the studs dont turn as your tighten the head down especially if they are bottomed as it appears it can cause the cracking across to the water jacket.

cheers russ

[haw001]

How do you stop them from turning? Does the block need to be tapped or is the thread the same as std?

[giant]

easiest way is to use thread lock and white mark the stud and keep an eye on it as you are tightening up. and definately dont overtighten (as in add some extra tension)

[BezerkR32]

from what i understand they are available to suit RB26, so you would think they were to suit standard block thread,

the newer series of studs have a allan head socket in the top. When i install them i wind them all the way in, then a half turn back out.

How do you stop them from turning? Does the block need to be tapped or is the thread the same as std?

[Angus Smart]

I'm in Bankstown. i have two motors i pulled apart so i have a few sets spare headstuds. some from a r34 motor that wasnt used much at all and others from a thrashed out 32 sl$t

i bought new studs from arp and the bar is still at home too. hanging out with my good one

And Russ, you sure your not thinking about main studs?? i have the arp head studs at home and they are actually an Arp kit. where as the main stud kit isnt..

i have a turbo Question now

R34 N1 turbos aa403's with a 5mm larger front wheel. when i am rebuilt i wasnt to try somewhere close to 30 pound

i have a nice Arc cooler hks hard pipe kit and the hks hot pipe kit. i'm wondering if my Bastard turbos will flow that much air efficantly? or will i have to either turn the boost down or try maybe cooler spray or something else to keep inlet temps down?

[haw001]

I'm in Bankstown. i have two motors i pulled apart so i have a few sets spare headstuds. some from a r34 motor that wasnt used much at all and others from a thrashed out 32 sl$t

i bought new studs from arp and the bar is still at home too. hanging out with my good one

And Russ, you sure your not thinking about main studs?? i have the arp head studs at home and they are actually an Arp kit. where as the main stud kit isnt..

i have a turbo Question now

R34 N1 turbos aa403's with a 5mm larger front wheel. when i am rebuilt i wasnt to try somewhere close to 30 pound

i have a nice Arc cooler hks hard pipe kit and the hks hot pipe kit. i'm wondering if my Bastard turbos will flow that much air efficantly? or will i have to either turn the boost down or try maybe cooler spray or something else to keep inlet temps down?

Can't tell you absolutely for the 34 N1 turbos, but the 32 N1 turbos will flow 30 psi fine, but you will probably be flowing past what the internal gate can handle under heavy load, so even fully open they will probably creap. I would give them a try and change them only if you find them unsuitable. At this pressure, you should start looking at something with an external gate.

[Angus Smart]

Did someone just say screamer pipe!! <3 my exhaust shop is going to love me. i'll have a chat to them about it.

if this is the case (external gate). then i may aswell sell my complete exhaust, get a custom dump/front system made and go ahead with the trust 90mm titanium exhaust.. shouldnt cost me any more than two wastegates and a few 100 bucks.

Let me know what you want to do about them bolts/washers? and the front bar. i will be in st peters till about 11pm tonite.

or live at Bankstown and work in Liverpool/Moorebank..?

[giant]

the ARP'S i used were part of a kit for THE RB26, but maybe there has been an update.

the extra length of the stud compared to the original allen key bolt made quite an amount of difference to the oil the breathers would spit out on a lap at QR, ( like about a litre every 2 laps!!)

it was the only change we had made, we then cut em down & probelm gone again.

[Angus Smart]

the ARP'S i used were part of a kit for THE RB26, but maybe there has been an update.

the extra length of the stud compared to the original allen key bolt made quite an amount of difference to the oil the breathers would spit out on a lap at QR, ( like about a litre every 2 laps!!)

it was the only change we had made, we then cut em down & probelm gone again.

Can you give me a bit more info on this? i'd like to foward this onto my engine builder just incase its going to be a problem.

i know the main stuf kit needs to be cut down, wasn't aware of the head studs causing problems.

cheers

[haw001]

Part Number: AR202-4207

http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...rtno=AR202-4207

Not sure about the price, but I think they are about $400.

[Merli]

My GTR has been sitting stagnant for more than a month now... I'm sure the spiders are loving the rollcage as anchor points for their webs

If you guys don't want to work on your car, feel free to come and put mine back together! The pile of parts sitting outside of the car waiting to go back in, is taller than the car itself

[Risking]

Studs are worth while, main studs as well.

Ive also had blocks with little cracks across water galleries, My machinist said it was more than likely from the studs bottoming out so now we also cut them down, loctite them in the day before assembly and liquid paper mark before tightening down.

[Duncan]

merli , I am happy to meet you halfway and install your bits on our car?

[Merli]

merli , I am happy to meet you halfway and install your bits on our car?