Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

why? you do know that that kind of stuff is made from recycled old oil!

ive spent alot on the build!!! money for oil is not a problem....

i have just been told so many differnt things.....

Penrite make a good "run in" oil...hang on ill do a search

EDIT: here ya go...

http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_article...p;nav_top_id=55

Valvoline make one too...but i just use a mineral based Valvoline with no friction modifier.

Edited by DiRTgarage
its one to think about... should it be ran in like they say to as well?

as i have heard 500km will do then a oil filter oil change...

i generally drop the oil and filter after a few hrs or 100klm.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I change the first oil filter after 10 to 20 minutes running. New oil filter and top up the Castrol GTX. Do 500 k's, usually to Bathurst and back, lots of uphill stuff to load the engine. Check the leak down, if OK then change the oil filter and oil to Castrol Edge 10W60.

Cheers

Gary

well im not bout 2 months off starting my motor which is a tomei stroker motor with almost everything tomei which we all know is worth a pretty penny... so gtx still cheap but will do the job just fine its a 20w-50 isnt it..... wouldnt ya want sumthing a lil bit thinner to make sure it penetrates everywhere.... provided clearances are all correct it shouldnt matter but yeh im just curious as to this matter...

off topic wat do u guys do for a run in technique nethin special or unique???

Edited by skylinekid
My motor got 20 min run in on the engine dyno with basic synthetic oil, then map low end then full throttle!

riteeee from wat ive always been told u should never run in ur engine on ne sort of synthetic type oils due to they can glaze the bores hence shit sealing of the ring which makes for an unhappy engine.....

so yeh hows it runing these days???

riteeee from wat ive always been told u should never run in ur engine on ne sort of synthetic type oils due to they can glaze the bores hence shit sealing of the ring which makes for an unhappy engine.....

so yeh hows it runing these days???

Sorry my mistake, that was supposed to be "basic mineral" oil

I used the castrol GTX as someone said earlier in the thread.

Edited by GTR1993
I change the first oil filter after 10 to 20 minutes running. New oil filter and top up the Castrol GTX. Do 500 k's, usually to Bathurst and back, lots of uphill stuff to load the engine. Check the leak down, if OK then change the oil filter and oil to Castrol Edge 10W60.

Cheers

Gary

just curious on the way the car gets driven to bathurst, revs etc or do u just drive normally and let the road do the work?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...